What to look for then ?
Personally when I go to buy a bike I can make
a decision pretty quickly before looking at the bike just
by speaking to the owner.
If buying blind from a poorly written ebay advert all written
in txt speak with little real valid information, then expect
the owner to be perhaps young, and as such be prepared to
see a bike that’s actually quite typical now at the
lower end of the price spectrum.
However an owner who has owned the bike for a number of years,
presents you with some bills and tells you all about the works
he has done to it over the years gives a feeling of confidence
when buying.
Common sense will tell you to run away fast, or try and secure
a nice bike.
I would never be bothered about a service history, you buy
taking a chance, a well serviced and maintained bike could
always throw a rod out of the block tomorrow, and always buy
after factoring in a full service by default, and a strip
and clean to get intimate with the bikes workings, and spot
any bodges or anything about to drop off.
The
difference in the quality of bikes is quite extreme,
is the bike clean ?
chain oiled ? or hanging off ?
sprockets in good order or looking like lethal throwing stars
?
Tyres in good condition and a good brand or replaced with
cheap avon death masters or swallow hedge finders?
Is the bodykit original ? or has it been replaced with a Chinese
bodykit ?
Much aftermarket stuff fitted ?
if it’s got an aftermarket can attached has it been
re-jetted to suit and more importantly jetted correctly?
Bikes with original paint and panels (be careful to check
the paint is genuine (genuine is mainly stickers on top of
paint and as such has a rough edge) are often worth a lot
more than bikes with a paintjob on some aftermarket panels.
However if your after a track bike the above is irrelevant.
It will always be harder to sell on a bike with your custom
paintjob than a standard one so think before you go ripping
all the original parts off and chucking them away. Halving
your target audience when bored of the bike may see you regretting
making all those changes when you get no one expressing any
interest in your bike when it’s for sale.
So which do I buy ? NC30 or NC35 ?
All down to personal preference of course.
A few of us have owned a few of both over the years and often
the NC30 is seen as the classic bike and one most prefer for
one reason or another. However there is no denying the RVF
is a pretty looking bike which still looks modern today which
will appeal to the younger buyer. The NC30 has the classic
looks and esp in the early Red white and blue colours (same
as the majority of UK spec bikes based on the RC30 scheme)
is the one most NC30 buyers seem to want.
There are small differences between the bikes which I will
try and sum up quickly.
The NC30 feels slightly thinner and taller, seems to fit together
better, seems a bit more soild, and pulls very well up top
with fine solid handling. However has a very tall first gear
which some don’t like. It also has an 18” rear
wheel which means finding track rubber can be harder. But
the 30 has classic lines and looks.
The NC35 feels a tad lower and easier to handle. It has a
stronger feeling mid range but can be at the expense of top
end (not in all cases, every bike is different, but often),
brakes are excellent, but shock and forks are poor quality
even although USD. Some 35 plastics are still available new
from david silver spares however are very costly.
Summary
The NC30/35 is a well built bike. Its testament
to Honda’s build quality that they are still going today
even after suffering years of use and abuse at the hand of
often skint owners dipping their toe into “first bike
bike” ownership. But at best even the newest NC35 is
still 14 years old now so as with any bike – buy and
budget accordingly. With all the owners on the Forums you
are not far from good solid tried and tested advice. Thanks
for taking the time to read this I hope it aids in your purchase.