hot nc30 switchgear+quick action throttle :-)
Posted: Fri Apr 10, 2009 11:43 pm
iv'e just fitted R6 throttle and switchgear to my nc30 !!
I sprayed the clipons/yolks/master cyl/clutch lever assembly/fork lowers mirror stay and headlight stay matt black . . . with the fresh modern looking switchgear it really looks the nuts!! and feels pretty 'quick action' too!! althought i didnt think to measure up before i removed the old one (expecting it to be the same) so i got no actual comparison . . . but its definately quicker to wide open
I had to use one r6 throttle cable and one original honda cable (with a small amount of jiggery) to adjust out the slack properly . . . oh and the wiring for the left hand switches took a fair bit of . . . err . . . 'starring aimlessly at the multimeter in a vien attempt at understanding what was goin on inside' kinda thing. In the end i opened em up and drew a picture of what wires went to what switches ect . . . then just transposed my picture onto the nc wiring diagram !! a high power coputer psu connector, a length of heatshrink and some solder saw to connecting em up . . .
The plus side it that i now have Fresh looking front end with 'working hazard lights' but . . . just like the r6, my headlights are constantly ON all the while the ignition is on !! however as the wires have been spliced BEFORE the switches I can now feel confident about uprating the headlight bulbs without the extra load damaging the switch or wiring (without the need for the 'low beam relay' mod) !!
although now i think about it, that load is going to cause a bigger arc to jump across the ignition switch on contact possibly causing damage in the long run ?? well i suppose its no different than turning the ignition 'on' with the stock headlight switch already 'on' . . . im sure you all do it now and again ?? oh well only time will tell i suppose . . .
oh and i also made up some lightwieght ally bars (both together weigh 160 grams less than ONE of the stock bars) !! which are indexible (meaning you can twist em in the clamps by loosening the pinch bolt unlike the stock bars!!) they are still captive (meaning they cannot 'pull out' of the clamps as long as the bolt is still in the hole, tight or not) !! This twistability was the only reason i could get around the brake/clutch lever clearance issues so 'beware' if you try and fit em to standard steel bars !! you may end up with funny angled levers :-)
still a bargain at 50 quid :-)
I'll post up the pics soon as i can . . .
I sprayed the clipons/yolks/master cyl/clutch lever assembly/fork lowers mirror stay and headlight stay matt black . . . with the fresh modern looking switchgear it really looks the nuts!! and feels pretty 'quick action' too!! althought i didnt think to measure up before i removed the old one (expecting it to be the same) so i got no actual comparison . . . but its definately quicker to wide open
I had to use one r6 throttle cable and one original honda cable (with a small amount of jiggery) to adjust out the slack properly . . . oh and the wiring for the left hand switches took a fair bit of . . . err . . . 'starring aimlessly at the multimeter in a vien attempt at understanding what was goin on inside' kinda thing. In the end i opened em up and drew a picture of what wires went to what switches ect . . . then just transposed my picture onto the nc wiring diagram !! a high power coputer psu connector, a length of heatshrink and some solder saw to connecting em up . . .
The plus side it that i now have Fresh looking front end with 'working hazard lights' but . . . just like the r6, my headlights are constantly ON all the while the ignition is on !! however as the wires have been spliced BEFORE the switches I can now feel confident about uprating the headlight bulbs without the extra load damaging the switch or wiring (without the need for the 'low beam relay' mod) !!
although now i think about it, that load is going to cause a bigger arc to jump across the ignition switch on contact possibly causing damage in the long run ?? well i suppose its no different than turning the ignition 'on' with the stock headlight switch already 'on' . . . im sure you all do it now and again ?? oh well only time will tell i suppose . . .
oh and i also made up some lightwieght ally bars (both together weigh 160 grams less than ONE of the stock bars) !! which are indexible (meaning you can twist em in the clamps by loosening the pinch bolt unlike the stock bars!!) they are still captive (meaning they cannot 'pull out' of the clamps as long as the bolt is still in the hole, tight or not) !! This twistability was the only reason i could get around the brake/clutch lever clearance issues so 'beware' if you try and fit em to standard steel bars !! you may end up with funny angled levers :-)
still a bargain at 50 quid :-)
I'll post up the pics soon as i can . . .
