Hello,

it`s time for more power….but what should I do….

airboxlid modify
foam airfilter
main jets
carp needles
½ race exhaust with DB inlet (sometimes)
new sparks
front sprocket 14
valve clearance check
carb balancing


is it worth to make a set of shorter bellmouth or using quitening gears
and wich are the best main jets or needles for me ?

Steffen

if you want big power change your bike.

but first off check your valve clearances and balance the carbs before you start jetting or modifying things,but at the end of the day 3-4hp is all your going to get if your lucky, as far as i was aware junking the quieting gears don't give you more power but allows the bike to rev faster but to take full advantage of this you need to do a hell of a lot more work.

technically junking the quitening geers will increase power

there will be less load for the enigne to turn per revolution becasue the cam shafts will be lighter (iam right that their attached tot he cam shaft) hence free'ing up more power that the engine in porducing that will be transered to the rear wheel

trust im doing my physic's coursework on it

If you haven't done it before now, uprate your suspension!

And before everyone gets the flame-throwers out - if you want more power to go quicker, not faster, then uprating your suspension will get you there quicker than an extra 3 or 4 horse power. :D

If you want to go faster; well, thats a different story altogether!

Hello again,

I don`t expect so much more power....
A good spread band with maybe 65 hp...
by the way the suspension mods are done

65bhp!
i was happy to crack 60bhp with mine and that was twin can half system,adjustable needles,foam filter,2.5mm mod and 4 hours at a dyno centre in soaking wet clothes,result 62bhp

i think 65bhp is achievable but it will come at a price and it might mean more work than just a few bolt on pieces.good luck and i'd be interested to hear who's done what to make 65bhp !

well simon ed has just cracked 70 and he's had lots of work done

65bhp will cost you a fair bit, v4 engine tuning is very expencive and to get 65 id say u will need to have had some engine work done (blue printed probably whith greater tolerances)

not sure how reliable it will be as a road bike aswell

How accurate are dynos?

Unless each engine is put on the same calibrated dyno, how do you know if the engine or dyno is responsible for the reading.
A dyno is useful for measuring gains, but I am not sure about outright power.

My NC 30 came with FI needles and cut away exhaust baffles and spent a lot of time on the dyno, and shows 64bhp at 12,600 rpm on a Fuchs dyno [Braggs of Surbiton, drag race builders] but I have no way of knowing if the power reading is correct, although the bike pulls much harder than my previous one, particularly from 8 to 10,000rpm

When Ascot House Racing were around, they always complained bikes tested on other dynos made more power than on theirs, even standard motors, or ones that they had not worked on.
Dave.

all dynos are different, and it depends when you have it dyno'd, it will read higher when its a cooler. My bike read 65 din reading on the dyno at my work a few years ago, and it now reads 70 din reading at bmc racings dyno with the new programmable cdi.

If you good power you will have to have engine work done, porting,balancing rods,pistons etc, skimming heads and blocks, removing quietning gears, full race system, then there's ram air, you could also get a quick shifter.

If you want a top spec bike you'll have to spend top dollar to get it, but like it was said, get the basics done first, suspension, running right, good brakes.

good luck with it

royster81 wrote: 4 hours at a dyno centre in soaking wet clothes,

do anybody else fail to find this odd?