Noisey tappets - check valve clearances?

[Wozza]

As above really, tappets seem a bit noisey, is it worth checking the valve clearances and adjusting if necessary? Bike is an NC23 and has done nearly 30k km.
Cheers,
Wozza

[greggo]

I dont think there are any tappets in an NC23.

What you have from memory is shim under bucket clearance adjustment.

30K Would be a reasonable time to check valve clearances.

[wullvfr]

how does the bike idle,is it erratic at all.

this is usually a sign of valve clearances being out.

it is a simple job(when you know how) so definately worth doing.get yourself a manual which will make it easier.


if the clearances have never been done or checked then 30k is well enough mileage to check them now.


william

[leopard_pagan]

"how does the bike idle,is it erratic at all. this is usually a sign of valve clearances being out."
>odd as i thought erratic idle meant you need to balance the carbs up!

[wullvfr]

my mistake lp,you are spot on.

the reason i make that mistake everytime is because before synchronising the carbs you are suppose to make sure the valve clearances are correct as you may get false readings,so i always get the two mixed up



william

[Wozza]

Idle is slightly erratic, less now than when I first got it (had been standing unused for a while). Carbs were stripped and reset in January 2006, but valves have never been checked to my knowledge. The bike does have restricter washers fitted, if that makes any difference. Cheers for the advice, might have to wait a while but I'll check the clearances.

[leopard_pagan]

erratic idle is one of the main symptoms of unbalanced carbs... just not heard (yet) that it can also be valves.
and before ripping the rocker cover off and save your self a lot of money.. you can do a compression check to see *IF* you need to do the valve clearances. its what the bike shop did to mine and after 6 years of every day use.. the valves did NOT need adjusting.. how weird/cool is that?
how long do you have to have the washers in?
if for a long while still, do get the carbs re-jetted to suit the washers. the bike will run better, then when its time to remove the washers, re-jet the bike back to normal.

[wullvfr]

un balanced carbs is the main culprit for an erratic idle lp,and a few other possibilities but not valve clearances.like i said,i got it mixed up because before balancing carbs you should should get the clearances done as it may give false readings whilst balancing the carbs.

like lp say's,get a compression test done as this may give you a better idea.but for the sake of peace of mind,i would personally go ahead with doing them.especially if you fell competent enought o do it yourself.




william

[CMSMJ1]

I disagree that a compression test is a good indication of whether the valves need adjusting.

If the bike has compression then goo.. But the valve clearances usually tighen up due to coke depostis and valve stretch and so resetting them back to the correct tolerance will make your bike run better regardless of whether you have good or bad compression... which you do have as it runs OK.

It is not voodoo - it is a bloody logical and very satisfying thing to have done to your bike so you know it is in tip top condition.

Get them checked using the methods Honda proscribe for checking them. Compression testing is good for testing one thing...and it is not valve clearances.

That's my tuppence

[Matt]

IMO i would agree with the above, a compression test will not provide a clear indication of valve clearances. If they are getting noisy, then the gap is too large, which means that the valves are not opening fully so you may notice a difference in performace, however they will still be seating as good as they were before so you will still have good compression.

Checking the clearances is fairly straight forward, I'm currently building an NC23 track bike and have just checked mine. Get yourself a decent set of feeler gauges and a manual and you cant really go wrong. Mine were actually all within tolerance im pleased to say, but even if you do have to adjust yours again its fairly straight forward. Obviously you need to remove the cam shafts but as there is no cam chain its much easier, just be careful removing and tightening the cam shaft holders, make sure you work your way round the bolts evenly as you can stress the cam shafts if the covers come off unevenly.

Hope this helps, just my opinion of course!

Cheers,
Matt