FZR400RR 3TJ

[IanG1]

What should I be looking to pay for an '89 3tj in decent nick please.
Any specific things to look out for when I view

Ta in advance

Ian

[cagiva996]

make sure its not been raced lots of them have and still are.check for signs of lockwiring or drilled sump plugs,tatty wheel rim edges could indicate lots of wheelchanges and dont touch anything with a dented or damaged frame.anything that smokes or has a noisy motor walk away from as theres plenty of choice.remember that they are popular with new or young riders so may not have always been maintained too well and get thrashed to within an inch of their lives!the motor sould run nice and smooth and pull through the revs without any flat spots or hesitation even though its only a 400 it still has a reasonable midrange.go for the best you can afford as there is some really nice ones out there.try to get as standard as possible as they tend to get modified alot (im as guilty as anyone).they are very reliable when treated with a bit of respect and %99 of bits and spares are freely available with the exeption of the top fairings which are getting a bit scarce in good nick.make sure the discs arnt warped as they do and is expensive to sort.the sp version is worth paying a bit extra for as the suspension is fully adjustable at both ends and has a few axtra goodies over standard.the models are designated 3tj for the jap imports or 4dx for the official uk model(which is the one id go for if i was buying again) as it has uk clocks and headlight,but there wernt that many 4dx sold as they were nearly 6 grand back in 93/94.as far as price goes a grand would get you a nice example and a tidy sp recently went for nearly 2000.just remember theres plenty to choose from-get a good one and youve got an amazing little bike!

[Evilchicken0]

When the ignition is first turned on you should hear a "weep, weep" noise thats the EXUP servo, then you'll hear a ticking that's the fuel pump.
Take a good look at the downpipes if they're badly rusted walk away they're a Yamaha only part there's no aftermarket replacements.
The discs can be bought second hand for about £70 ish, as with lots of Yamaha things you can use other models discs.
Front wheels are difficult and fuel tanks along with the top fairing.
Braided brake lines are good but not if they have alluminium fittings because they corrode.
Turn the bars from lock to lock, they shouldn't pinch your hands on the frame, if they do it's been dropped, not the end of the world but worth asking some questions and a barganing tool as well. Look at the engine casings too - chances are they're scuffed but heay scoring isn't so bad.
If it has an aftermarket can then ask for the original they're heavy, and are carbon fibre.
Ask if it's been derestricted either with a kmh /mph speedo converter or an M-Max box.
Does the same key fit all the locks ??? They ALL have 1WG as an engine number.

Apart from this check everything that a 20year old bike needs to checked for (headrace bearings, wheel bearings etc).
Remember it's winter and cold ... act cool and offer £750 if it's average to begin with, or lower if they're asking that amount.


Standard exhaust can



Black ones are nicer

[IanG1]

Thanks for the replies, top stuff.
The present owner says the header pipes have been replaced for a micron full system but this does not incorporate the exup valve? anyone know if these are/were available and what difference it will make to the running of the bike, I guess low/midrange will be affected but I want to track it anyway so may be able to live with it.

I am viewing tonight so wish me luck

[Evilchicken0]

Your right about mid low rev range.
It will affect torque which means you'll be slower off the line but may gain a little top end. Check the carbs are rejetted for the pipe

[IanG1]

Viewed it last night.
Was in decent nick to be honest for a 20 year old bike but was sorn with no MOT
Hadn't been on the road for a few years, fork seals leaking though the guy had recently cleaned up the brakes and changed the oil. Tyres had tread but looked old and back shock had seen better days.
It ran nicely and sounded sweet enough though the replacement header pipes did not look right for the bike, they looked rather low under the engine and stuck out from the bike too far (600 headers maybe?)
I offered him £700 to budget the money I would need to spend, it was up for £900 but he wanted £850 and wouldn't budge so I walked away.

[Taggyd]

the 600 replacement pipes seems pretty common, replacement 3tj pipes cost a bit, new shock the same, (even a recondition is a fair bit!) if you factor that into a final price with tyres etc, i recon you did the right thing!
its worth waiting for a bit for a decent one! just no fun witout a bike though!

[IanG1]

I was really after it to do track days on and the odd bit on the road, I have 2 other road bikes so not bikeless I am also a bit of a fair weather sort and it's to cold and wet to be out for a ride at the minute
I just thought that post Xmas with the current economic gloom and doom would be a good time to pick up a bargain. I will just keep looking around. Who knows the guy may well call in a week or so and decide it was a fair offer, I would then offer him £600

[Evilchicken0]

I wouldn't offer £600 for a sorn with no MOT and that amount of work to be done.
I've seen a TJ offered on here with rotten pipes and short MOT for £350.

I've a 3en2 if your interested

[plodder]

I paid £700 in May for my 3TJ with good tyres & 4 months MOT and it's pretty much mint. You did well to walk away from that one.