As am I write in the introduction, I have a problem with my SP.
I don't have sparks in the 1-4 cylinder. I check the both coils, but they are good. I have spark from the other coil too, if I change the wires. I clean all of the plugs, but nothing changed.
This can be a CDI problem? :/
Thanks, Tibi

If swapping the coils around proves them to both be ok you need to move to the next thing down line of supply.
Next will be the low tension wires.
Check you get 12v supplied to the coil and that there are no breaks in the wires, using a multimeter find the ends of the wires and test for continuity.

I have the 12V both of the coils between the frame and the orange wire, and I test the white wire between the left coil and the CDI...and that's ok too. The orange wire have connection to the white striped orange wire in the CDI's plug. I measure circa 1,5kOhm between the green-yellow wire and the orange one.( I think this because the M-max unit) Every plug is nice and clean.
The other wire of the right coil is good too...

ha i see u have checked the wires to the coils so if u r getting 12 light on your unit the coils are being energised from the teminals on the cdi
1/ get hold of a strobe light take a plug out connect the strobe light
2/ fire the motor over (IS THE STROBE LIGHT GIVING A CONTINUSE SPARK ie NOT MISSING A SPARK THEN STARTING AGAIN.
3/ CHECK EVERY BLOODY CYLINDER LIKE ABOVE TO SEE IF OK CONTINOUS SPARK.
4/ if you find one of the plugs not doing this but stopping take off the offending coil
5/ it should read when connecting to the positive and negative wire 3.5 h it may be a bit more than this (do not just touch these teminals see 3.5h and remove LEAVE THE UNIT ON !!!!! IF IT STARTS TO DROP down from 3.5h THE COIL IS CREAM CRACKERED (iv had this. )

Next
1/ r u getting the correct metter reading when connecting to the pig tail coils from the pick up coil (again keep your voltimeter on (check against spec think its 98h u should get

next R U SURE THEIR IS NO PROBLEMS WITH PROP STAND SWITCH OR THE GEAR CHANGE SWITCH INDICATOR.

NEXT is the bridge diode ok thats the one that plugs in to the wiring loom and looks like a fuse (this is the like sequence interlock so u dont go off with stand down in gear etc.

AND LAST JUST DO A BIT OF A CHECK AT THE HANDLE BAR (kill swich sometimes these fray a bit and can upset some things)

[quote="minkathecat"]ha i see u have checked the wires to the coils so if u r getting 12 light on your unit the coils are being energised from the teminals on the cdi
1/ get hold of a strobe light take a plug out connect the strobe light
2/ fire the motor over (IS THE STROBE LIGHT GIVING A CONTINUSE SPARK ie NOT MISSING A SPARK THEN STARTING AGAIN.
3/ CHECK EVERY BLOODY CYLINDER LIKE ABOVE TO SEE IF OK CONTINOUS SPARK.
4/ if you find one of the plugs not doing this but stopping take off the offending coil
5/ it should read when connecting to the positive and negative wire 3.5 h it may be a bit more than this (do not just touch these teminals see 3.5h and remove LEAVE THE UNIT ON !!!!! IF IT STARTS TO DROP down from 3.5h THE COIL IS CREAM CRACKERED (iv had this. )

Next
1/ r u getting the correct metter reading when connecting to the pig tail coils from the pick up coil (again keep your voltimeter on (check against spec think its 98h u should get

next R U SURE THEIR IS NO PROBLEMS WITH PROP STAND SWITCH OR THE GEAR CHANGE SWITCH INDICATOR.

NEXT is the bridge diode ok thats the one that plugs in to the wiring loom and looks like a fuse (this is the like sequence interlock so u dont go off with stand down in gear etc.

AND LAST JUST DO A BIT OF A CHECK AT THE HANDLE BAR (kill swich sometimes these fray a bit and can upset some things)
ALLS WELL THAT ENDS WELL EVEN IF IT TAKE MONTHS lol

is the bridge diode ok

Yes, its ok, no problem there.

R U SURE THEIR IS NO PROBLEMS WITH PROP STAND SWITCH OR THE GEAR CHANGE SWITCH INDICATOR.

kill swich sometimes these fray a bit and can upset some things

I watch the electrical circuit diagram, but how can this things shoot down just one among of the two HT coils?
My bike still running with just 2 cylinder (2-3)yet.
In the next week, i try to get a new HT coil from a running bike, to filter out the hidden errors of that thing.

Hi! Anybody knows what is the difference between the BB7214 and the BB7215 cdi unit? (mine is the first)

I don't know anything about the GSX-R400SP model, but I wonder if the fact that there are different CDI units for the SP might be a similar situation to the GSF-400. Here's a pic that tries to explain the differences between the two CDIs that Suzuki used in the GSF-400.



So is the SP like the GSF-400? Were there different shaped pulser trigger wheels installed on different year models of the SP? Did all of the SP CDIs have the same wiring inputs? Or the same number of inputs (like throttle position sensor)?

I try one GSF 400 CDI. The number is 32900-33D00. This is not works. After this i open my CDI box(that was hard, because the silicon rubber-i can remove just with acetone, and need lots of saw work) And found the problem. The first pin's soldering was cracked. I bridge through with one wire,(between the pin and the transistor) and after this, it's start to sparking again. I change all of the capacitor's too.
Thx 4 help.^^
I found 2 different CDI-s in the SP models. And the Bandit's CDI is not the same. The SP-2 have 2 plugs.

SevenThreeSeven wrote:I don't know anything about the GSX-R400SP model, but I wonder if the fact that there are different CDI units for the SP might be a similar situation to the GSF-400. Here's a pic that tries to explain the differences between the two CDIs that Suzuki used in the GSF-400.



So is the SP like the GSF-400? Were there different shaped pulser trigger wheels installed on different year models of the SP? Did all of the SP CDIs have the same wiring inputs? Or the same number of inputs (like throttle position sensor)?

Yep, I think that was the problem, when i try the GSF CDI.