If anyone is wanting to lose the airbox and fit pod filters I have found a solution. OE air filters are about £40 atm, which is what I paid for all 4 pod filters. Just don't throw the airbox away as it is no longer available new.
YOu need to jet right up to 132 dynojet jets or 122.5 mikuni jets to get it to run right. Don't omit this as you will melt your valves/pistons.
I bought the 54mm pods which are a real tight squeeze but they do go on, and I've caned my bike and they're still on there! Yuu need to buy the oval ones as in the pic. WEMOTO sell them presently.
The biggest gain in power is the midrange with a few hp on top.
And the sound on full chat is magical!

I fitted the two middle ones upside down to get a littler more room, but the 2 outer filters touch each other.

Here's the filters I bought, you can get them a little cheaper than Wemoto if you look around. http://www.wemoto.pl/parts/picture/hl-412054/

To update this post the best results I have got using pods is using RC98 S+B pod filters. They are a real squeeze to get on, but flow good air, and the low/mid range running is pretty good. You have to run the 2 inside ones upside down.
I ended up on 126 mains (dynojet), std needles/NJ and clip setting, and std pilot screw settings (2 out), and std PJ (32.5).
Looking back, the bike is developed to run the airbox, the major benefit on using pods is that it develops power quicker in the rev range, meaning you don't have to screw the bike into the redline quite as much. Hence faster to ride.
I will port the head later in the year, and replace the shit M+P valve stem seals, and hopefully get around 65/68 hp. At about 60 ATM.
Nick.

moforockband wrote:To update this post the best results I have got using pods is using RC98 S+B pod filters. They are a real squeeze to get on, but flow good air, and the low/mid range running is pretty good. You have to run the 2 inside ones upside down.
I ended up on 126 mains (dynojet), std needles/NJ and clip setting, and std pilot screw settings (2 out), and std PJ (32.5).
Looking back, the bike is developed to run the airbox, the major benefit on using pods is that it develops power quicker in the rev range, meaning you don't have to screw the bike into the redline quite as much. Hence faster to ride.
I will port the head later in the year, and replace the shit M+P valve stem seals, and hopefully get around 65/68 hp. At about 60 ATM.
Nick.

Hi Nick, many thanks for the info, interesting for sure.

What do Dynojet mains equate to in terms of Mikuni mains?

Also what do you do with the rocker box breather when not running an airbox?

AFAIK the Dynojet jets marry up nearly perfectly with the Mikuni jets fitted to the gsxr as std. The trick is to stay with one common line of MJ. I'm not convinced by the dynojet/Mikuni conversion charts on the net, I don't think they're correct for our age of carbs.
The airbox breather I position between the 2 middle ones. It does stain the filters but you can always clean them when necessary. I get a smell of crankcase gas whilst sat at the lights when the engine's hot also.
I track day my bike, so need as much power off the throttle, but there is weight in keeping the airbox. It will run bang on, won't make you go deaf, and you have a place to put the breather, and no need to re-jet.