firstly this might end up a long post and ill head it with numbered points so if you want to reply to a certain point you can use the number.

problem is about 2 months ago i replaced the clutch cover and as you may know this requires taking the stater off too, put the new cover on and replaced stater filled with oil, done (or so i thought) she rode fine for at least 1 month. one day went to go out and bat was dead, thought it might have just drained for unknown reason and put spare bat in went fine......out on ride and stopped at lights coming back into town and could smell sulpher (not too far) got home and bat was smokin. put other bat back on and tested volts... 18 at 9000rpm, not good, so i got a new battery and reg rec thought sweet i should be alright, 1 week later bat dead again and the sure sign my regs gone again as indicator flicks increase with rpm. now for questions.
1) is the stater that temperamental, as my friend has told me. its pretty hard to not put them back bang online as the thread holes are machined so precise. to test this should i remove reg rec and test the volts coming straight from it and if so can you tell me what they should read?
2) how can i test my reg rec to make sure i haven't ruined it already, (is the indicator problem a reflection of this?) am i right in thinking that i need to test the wires that connect to the bat? can you tell me volts again?
3)there is also a fuse on the opposite side to reg one of the wires was melted (female part) is this crucial as the fuse itself is fine?.
4) have just been out for a short ride, 20 mins but gave it a bit, will the over voltage/charge for that short period ruin my 2 week old battery?

ps i know you ll probably read this at some stage leopard and i recall you possibly knowing what the above voltages are?

for problem 1:remove the connector at the reg rec and switch the multimeter to ac voltage.......the range should be above 50 volts so put it on a higher setting.you need to start the bike and @5000rpm take three seperate readings and they should all be above 50volts and the same.if any are different or below this then the alternator is goosed.

for problem 2:i would charge your battery off the bike then put back on and start the bike and test to see if its getting a charge and what the readings are....if its like it was before then it looks like its not regulating the output of the alternator very well and may need replacing.the charge rate should be between 13.5-15.5volts @5000rpm.this is now with the multimeter set to dc volts 20 range.you can test the reg rec for resistence etc but usually the charge rate of the battery gives a good indication.

for problem 3:this fuse is what i believe to be the main fuse 30a.thats in line usually with the ignition to starter relay etc.......i personally have a nc30 and this is where the main fuse is,it may be different but if its a 30a fuse then its definately the main fuse.

problem4:it may damage it.what you should do is disconnect the reg rec for the time being if you are going to use the bike and just keep the battery charged up when you get home.so long as you dont use your lights the bike should run for a good run anyway.

in the end when you find the culprit you may have to replace the battery,reg rec and alternator.
is it the correct battery for the bike????


william

with problem 2 you mean to test it with connectors on bat ? to isolate/check reg rec can/should i put volt meter on the wires separate/off the bat also?. im guessing i should start at alternator and move my way back.

to test the battery charge rate then just connect the multimeter to the battery @5000rpm.if its not getting a charge and the voltage is dropping then its more than likely a goosed reg rec.

for testing the output of the alternator remove the block connector from the reg rec....there will be 5 wires that goes into this connector three which should be yellow.these come from the alternator and this is where you check for the voltage output of the alternator.

switch the multimeter to ac volts and take three seperate readings between the three wires.this test is also done with the bike idling @5000rpm,each reading should be the same and 50volts or above,if less...or any different then the alternator is faulty.


william