Hi Guys. Just a kwik Q. Working on a mates NC30 and it is slipping a clutch, particularly when I gas it. I have set the cable to bite midway through the lever with enuff free play. Friction plates and steel plates are 100's but I did notice a little play in the basket. when I did have the clutch out, I did notice 1 of the 3 spring washers that sit behind the locknut is missing. Would this be one of the causes, I'm guessing it would.

Also, how much would the oil affect clutch slip as well. He is using Castrol 10w 40 Magnatech (semi synthetic) Engine oil and not bike oil. I'm also pretty sure this could be a cause for clutch slip If you ride the bike like a car then she goes fine, but then you might as well drive a car but the minute you give it gas she slips. release the throttle a little and she takes. If you accelerate slowly, she won't slip much or not at all sometimes.

owen_captain wrote:He is using Castrol 10w 40 Magnatech (semi synthetic) Engine oil and not bike oil. I'm also pretty sure this could be a cause for clutch slip

That will be a problem. Friction modifiers in that oil won't be much good for a wet clutch.

Just google 'castrol magnatech 10w 40 friction modifiers' and see what other bike fans have to say about it: https://www.google.com.au/#q=Castrol+10 ... +modifiers

thats what happens when you use car oil in a bike

LMAO . Thanx Guys, thought so Will give the oil a drain and top up with some new oil. Another Q; must I pull out the filter and drain the oil thats in there too, or will a simple drain and refill suffice?

The filter won't drain properly unless you remove it. Plus, it will be holding oil that you don't want to be in the engine. For the sake of a few quid, pull it off and replace it. I'd personally also get some cheap bike oil to refill the bike, run it on that for a short period, then ditch it for some decent stuff to make sure you've flushed out as much of the car stuff as is possible. Also, if there's a clutch spring missing, you're missing 1/3rd of the total force locking the plates up, so I'd sort that out too.

Kewl Speedy. Will be paying my local bike shop a visit soon. Thanx for the advice man. Much appreciated.

[quote="speedy231278"]I'd personally also get some cheap bike oil to refill the bike, run it on that for a short period, then ditch it for some decent stuff to make sure you've flushed out as much of the car stuff as is possible.quote]


Can I use any oil, or the same viscosity oil? 10w40?

I'd also add that yes, missing one of the 3 diaphragm springs is going to cause slippage....

owen_captain wrote:Can I use any oil, or the same viscosity oil? 10w40?

10W40 is what H specify. I'm not sure if that might be changed if you are in a very hot or very cold climate. I know from working on my parent's cars that VW specify a range of viscosities depending on the expected climate, however I've not seen that for NCs. I'd just go with 10W40.

Yes.

Soemtimes the moly grease added to low friction car oils will stick on the plates of a wet clutch and become troublesome even with new oil. Perhaps it wll be ok you will have to check.

as above, you should try and replace the missing spring too