I've just got a NC30, bit of a project first bit to get sorted is the possible flat battery problem. I knew the battery was flat as the bike arrived with a new one (used a good courier if anyone needs one?) and the vendor had said so he had used a jump pack to start it. Bike arrived at mine late and I really wanted to get out on it so bumped it to start (would not start on the key), rode couple of miles fine, really like it.
Researched the net found info on checking the rec/reg and the 3 yellows or the alternator.
Didn't want to nacker the new battery so:
Put the old battery on charge (low charge rate) next morning, put it in started fine, done a few more miles on it, later that evening, would not start on the key hummm.

Got a multi meter ready to check after work today.

Charged the old battery for a few hours 12.97 with the multi meter set to DCV 20, bridged the battery bike running at 5000 rpm as the info I had said got 12.71 alternator problem maybe via the info I had?
On to those 3 yellows, well never used a multi meter before for ohms so may have set it wrong (tip here would be good) all I got was a 1 on the far left of the screen on all of them, tried it on the different settings ignition on and off????? don't know what I was doing but don't think I did the test right, a-b, b-c, a-c???

Anyway, before I get other jobs done I want to get this sorted so could someone please give me a bit of help?

Here are some pic's


The multi meter I'm (trying) to use

Alternator wires disconnected, I tested the ones on the left that went through the V the others came out the loom (am I right?)

Found this where I guess a block normally is, one browny-burnty again.

Reg/rec the connection bottom row right is browny-burnty looking, can I test the reg/rec?

Basically don't want to ruin a new battery, what can I do to fix whatever may be a problem? I've tried a load of searches to found out myself but just cant work it out
help

Hi there the yellow wires ohms should be nice and low so 1ohm is good, I'd solder and heat shrink the break in them. Also either replace the burnt plug making sure the spades are really tight or solder the wires to the reg/rect. Yours is knackered so will need replacing before it kills the battery and then the stator/genny. You'd be looking for 13.8-14.5 roughly at 5000rpm with lights on. Easy fix just time consuming

Clean up all the connectors and cut back any burnt wires on the regulator and make sure you have good clean connections on the yellow wires... Then see what voltage you get at the battery. You can remove the pins out of the regulator plug with a small dental pick in the front of the plug . The female connectors will pull out of the back of the plug. If the wires are jacked you can always cut off the plug and solder or crimp on female spade connectors to each wire and just attach them directly to the male spade connectors on the regulator... In the right order!

Hope this helps!

You also might want to check ac volts on the stator (yellow wires). With the bike running at 4000 or so rpms you should have 50-70 volts ac ( if i remember correctly) between all 3 yellow wires (your mostly looking for consistency)

So I need a reg/rect then? Which shall I go for, loads on ebay? I read on a thread you got a crap one V4?
I got 12.71 at 5000rpm all connected up so whats that then reg/rect or alternator ?

I'll clean it all up and put it back together for another test.
The battery is leaking now I noticed! doesn't look good but has its 12.9 charge shall I sort the new one out?

Tornado so the 3 yellow test running at 4000rpm AC with them connected together? or split and do the ab,bc,ca one against another thing. Also what setting would I put the multi meter too, I cant work that thing out?

I'll do the test again once I get the idiots guide!ha
Thanks very much, looking forward to getting this bit done and onto the nicer jobs.
cheers

Check the yellow wires with them disconnected on the engine case side...one multimeter probe to one yellow and the other probe to another. Don't connect (short) the yellow wires together. You should read consistent AC voltage between each yellow wire. This will tell you if the alternator is good.

Put your meter on the ACV 200 setting... As for the ABC thing... You got it!

Worked late tonight but will get that test done tomorrow, thanks for the tips.

So do I need a reg/rec then? If so what should I go for?

Tested the battery before I started not charged from last time but been out of the bike standing. 12.59 noticed it had weeped a fair amount of acid?

3 yellow wire check all 54.8 all fluctuated by a .1 ish then did it again bike warmer all 48.1, that's pretty good right?

Did across the bat REG/rec disconnected (didn't realise it was disconnected when I did the first test hope that's ok?) 12.23 and 26.1 (av) connected 12.27 26.1 again

under 13v for a battery is poor.

12.27 volts is across the battery with the rect/reg connected? 26.1 (av) is what measured where?