Hi guys, passed my Mod 2 the other day and have been riding my NC23 for 2/3 days now.

One thing I'm noticing is that the clutch lever is very stiff, it's actually making my hand / fingers ache after 1+ hour of riding.

I'm not sure whether this is specific to my bike, or these type of bikes in general, as the ER-5 I learnt on was very light in comparison.

Is there any way to make it a bit lighter? I think I may invest in some new adjustable levers soon to to decrease the reach slightly.

Thanks, Chris.

If it's like the NC30 clutch it's just a heavy clutch. You could oil the cables and pivot on the lever, but I don't think it'd make much difference.

Man up and get some finger strength I say

its pretty light on my nc23. i'd definetly check the cable and oil it/replace it if its bad

bikemonkey wrote:If it's like the NC30 clutch it's just a heavy clutch. You could oil the cables and pivot on the lever, but I don't think it'd make much difference.

Man up and get some finger strength I say

I've got nothing to compare it to which is the problem, other than my learner bike which as I say, was really like..

I've got quite big hands and fingers too but still find the reach is a bit long, which makes it feel stiffer as it's the tips of my fingers pulling it rather than the middle part.

Adjustable levers is probably going to help the most then.

How old was the ER-5 you learnt on?

Newer bikes generally have lighter clutches

Cant imagine a 23 is that different from a 29 clutch wise and mine is fairly light, I have small hands and find no problem with clutch action smooth and not at all heavy, although I do have the brake lever on the smallest reach for comfort.

I would go with the cable being either worn or not lubed causing friction or too tight with no play. Can you feel and see a small amount of lever slack before the cable starts to tighten, does the cable feel rough on pulling the lever? If you have a abba type of stand does the wheel rotate when the bike started in neutral then clutch kept in while selecting first? dont stick any body parts, kids or dogs in to the wheel if it does rotate, a mate near the footbrake would be handy in an emergancy also, while doing this test. Although you may get some light movement as opposed to wheel spin it could point to a clutch cable being too tight. Theres an odd chance your cable is not seated correctly at the adjuster. Perhaps you have heavy duty clutch springs fitted? A final option being if your using racing style levers which may be slightly different and causing problems.

I am certain this is the cable seized up, it's easy to whip off the bike and check, the inner cable should move completely freely within the outer cable (there should be virtually no resistance whatsoever)

It can seize almost solid so you can't actually pull and push the inner cable through with the whole thing off the bike. It will take 30 mins with tonnes of WD40/engine oil to get it free again. Absolutely worth the effort though.

Cheers

Adrian

The ER-5 I learnt on was something like 10 years old, and a right nail at that!

It felt a bit better today after another long ride, so I'm not sure if it's just me getting used to it?

The level does have some slack / movement though before it actually pulls the cable, so regardless it will need adjusting.

If you do go for a new clutch cable be sure to get the correct fitting I had no end of bother recently when I bought a new aftermarket cable and it was wrong. Went to a shop and they insisted it should work as they had sold loads but in this case Im sure I was right. ended up just replacing the inner due to needing the bike but did spot a direct copy on ebay the next day, so bought it. As Adrian has advised try wd40 as constant use may free it.

Cable oiler video, they are about £5 on ebay, just search 'cable oiler' !

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0OsC20Eqw4