any tips on changing one?
Haynes mention swinging Radiator forward coz they love that kind of thing...
do i really need to? or can i get to all the bolts with out doing that?

when i do the plugs i usually:
tank, air box,coils off
the rubber skirt i pull up & duct tape it to the frame out the way....

figuring that past the plugs i am pretty much there for the cover bolts.

I found i had to drop the radiator, no hoses are detached, doesnt take long to do and its fairly easy to get too for removal but as usual pulling the cover seemed easier than putting it back, still not hard though. Best remove other parts you mentioned as well.