Valve clearances

Post by **Speedy** » Tue Oct 07, 2008 10:25 pm

Will be attempting to do this soon and only for the second time ever; the 1st was on my RVF400 and with the guidance of this forum and the mighty Haynes, it went well; but will the Bandit be easier or more difficult?
Do these motors use shims like the V4 Honda's?

I could use a noddy guide on how to do this job on an IL4 engine; can anyone point me in the right direction?
Cheers.

M1KE · Post by **M1KE** » Tue Oct 07, 2008 10:49 pm

HAve you got a variable valve bike or a normal one?

Post by **Sligeach** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 12:41 am

here's a generic IL4 guide

http://www.themcdonalds.net/~themcdo/ri ... Clearances" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Post by **Speedy** » Thu Oct 09, 2008 12:26 am

M1KE wrote:HAve you got a variable valve bike or a normal one?

Normal one! What is the main difference with these 2?

Thanks declangaelic, had a quick look at that guide and it seems to me that the IL4 engines are a tad more difficult than the V4 on the NC's, to adjust the valves!?
So is it just a case of tightening or loosening the adjuster screws, or is there more to it?
I'm not sure on what to do with the cam chain either!??? Does it need adjusting too?

Post by **Sligeach** » Thu Oct 09, 2008 12:34 am

i did the valve Clearances on the V4 in Feb and on the IL4 (1998 ZX6) about a month ago.

the V4 was ok to do with the help of the haynes, measuing the clearance was easy. it was only pushing the rocker arm aside and putting a new shim in that was hard to do (fat fingers)

the IL4 was easy to measure the clearances too, but you have to undo 20 bolts to get the cams cover off. then take out the followers, then take out the shims, replace them and then re-bolt on the cam cover. the cam chain isnt that bad, but the haynes was essential, i would have been up sh!t creek without a paddle without it.

i,m in the SM3 postcode if you get stuck i'll give you a hand if you're not too far away

M1KE · Post by **M1KE** » Thu Oct 09, 2008 3:05 pm

The normal bandit has screw type tappet adjusters. So effectively very easy to do the job.

Post by **Speedy** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 11:19 pm

Thanks declangaelic, I've got a basic manual but a Haynes would certainly be a lot better; I should manage ok though. Once I get the cover off and see how the thing works, I should be able to do it.
Cheers M1KE, do you know if I'll need to replace any gaskets like the cylinder head cover and/or the valve timing inspection plug, or can the old ones be reused?
Anything else I should do to the engine whilst it's off the frame?
Cheers.

Post by **Sligeach** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 11:34 pm

no probs.
it was the same for me, i looked in the haynes and thought it was a mammoth task.
it wasn't mammoth, enjoyable infact
best of luck

Post by **Speedy** » Sat Oct 11, 2008 12:14 pm

Cheers, will report back soon; I'm off to do them now whilst the sun's out!

Post by **Speedy** » Sun Oct 12, 2008 5:00 pm

So yesterday I attempted to do this and ended up even more confused than when I started!
The manual I got off the net, is as basic as they come and the wording explaining what to do, threw me off track a bit and I got 'brain freeze' for a while. Then last night, I went searching the web again for Bandit400 valves clearances and came across yet another basic explanation of the procedure, but on it the guy doing the explanation mentioned to look for the BIG NOTCHES on the right side of the cams! YEAH (says I), NOT THE BLOODY TINY LINES OPPOSITE, YOU MUPPET!

DOH!
So all is well now; went back to them this morning got the BIG NOTCHES where they should be and proceeded measuring/adjusting cylinders 1&2 EX. and 1&3 IN, then do a 360 on the crank to move the BIG notches again and did the remaining cylinders! Bish bash bosh, 20 minutes tops!
They're all pretty much spot on, just on the loose side of perfect! :D
Now then, camchain adjustment hey?...