A long time ago i bought Tyga Rearsets and put them on but the problem is it won't shift gears. At first i thought it'd be a problem with the bike, thus i changed the gear-shifting rearset back to stock and it shifts absolutely fine. So I came to a conclusion that it was a problem with the Tyga Rearset. At the moment i use non-matching rearsets LOL, stock ones on gear shifter and tyga on the rear brakes. Before any flames, yes i know that the shifting pattern is reversed and yes i tried rolling it back and forth. Also i read that it could be a lubrication issue with the ball bearing so i bought some grease and lubricated it, still wont shift. Anyone have any idea what's wrong?

I'd imagine that the shift rod isn't long enough if you use reverse shift to fully select the gears.

An adjustable shift rod should sort it out, or you could try and move the shift mechanism a spline or two clockwise and see if it's any better.

OMG! Thank you so much. It kinda worked, which is a great start however i find extreme difficulty finding neutral. I know how to blip and put it in but that doesn't work. I'm terrible at tight u-turns so i really need to be able to find neutral quickly for a 3 point turn hehe...or maybe 5 point..=S. Also the shifting is quite stiff, i need to use quite a bit of strength but maybe the the racing sets are like that.

Sounds like you just need to be able to adjust it finely which an adjustable shift rod will give you.

This is no fault of the tyga rearsets - any footpegs that have a fixed length shift rod can give you issues when using reverse shift.

Not quite sure what you mean by adjustable. I thought the stock ones were already adjustable with the 2 nuts? Or is adjustable something else. Thank you so much for your help!

Oops! I forgot to mention my bike is 1996 NC35

Just looked at Tyga's website, and it appears that the rearsets for the 35 don't come with a shift rod, so I assume you reuse the stock one? I think the stock one can be adjusted, there is a lock nut either end, and one end will have a reverse thread. You just need to loosen the nuts (ooer) and twist the rod to either shorten or lengthen it, although this only serves to raise or lower the pedal. I can't see why the length of the rod would prevent shifting as the pedal doesn't have a limit of travel on it other than that which the shift drum gives it. The shift rod isn't binding on the bracket, is it? I had that with the rearsets originally on my bike. I had to pack them out with a few washers to prevent the shift rod catching the backplate. It's pretty close on my new ones, too.

order yourself one of these,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RVF-400-VFR-4 ... 43b6f9a0ce

as cammo said, the general consensus is to rotate the shifter arm by a spline till yo find the best position,hondas have a name for shit neutrals so blip the throttle and select neutral as the revs drop

is the gearchange knuckle lined up with the small punched dot on the end of the gearchange shaft
Every nc30 I've had has varied as regards selecting neutral found lining the knuckle with the dot helps a bit. The last bike that had a tyga step kit on it found it easier getting neutral using the method pornodog describes and the heel of my boot.