Yet another Topic!

I'm looking at installing heated grips but unsure whether my battery is upto the job. It's an Exide YTX9-BS and it isn't playing up at all and seems to be fine but the bike is also fitted with a datatool veto evo alarm (Not my choice, A previous owner many years ago). Anyone know if the battery will be fine with adding heated grips too? Is this something I can check with a cheap-o multimeter somehow? Not very experienced with electrics, most I've done is wire in LED indicators to a bandit, basic solder work following tonnes of online information.

Also where is a recommended/common place to tap into the loom? I had a mate install some heated grips on the bandit I use to have, though after installation, when the grips were turned on, the brake light pulsated very slightly, I assume it's the brake light wire he tapped into, will this happen on the RVF? Any reasoning as to why it pulsated slightly?

My idea is to tap into the loom (somewhere) and add a connector so the grips can easily disconnected to be removed in summer, where I can then sort out a cable to plug in satnav instead as I'll never want both at same time, probably not enough current for both either. I may well just use a 12v lighter socket or something, undecided at the moment.

Thanks again all!

The YTX9 battery is a heftier one than the standard YTX7, I'm not sure of the exact ratings, but I think it's about 20% more. It should probably be OK as alarms have a very low draw, and you'll only be using the grips when the bike is running. If you are worried, plumb the grip in, turn them on, and measure the charging voltages as per the myriad of reg/rec issue threads. I guess you may possibly want to consider direct wiring the reg/rec to the battery to help minimise losses. Remember that the battery is only really there for starting the bike and ballasting the electrical system to help even it out. The battery shouldn't be providing the actual oomph for anything. If it is, it will eventually be drained as it means the load on the electrical system is higher than the output of the alternator.

As for where to tap in, I guess that depends on the grip kit. Does it actually have any connectors, or are you just left to get on with it? I'd read the instructions, work out what current draw they are likely to have, then wire them directly to the battery terminals, with an appropriate value fuse in the circuit. Having had a quick squizz at some offerings from various sources it does look like most of them come with ring terminals for the battery, and an inline fuse, so it should be a simple case of fitting the grips, and wiring them to the battery terminals. Most also seem to have a connector in the circuit so you can disconnect them. I guess if you found a matching one, you could use it for your satnav in the summer, or retro fit an aftermarket plug to each of them. However, you'd probably want to fit a lower value fuse for the satnav as I would imagine it would draw naff-all current in comparison.

As for the flickering brake light, you may find that with them on, when the bike is at idle there's not enough ooomph in the system and the output is responding to minor changes in rpm. You can sometimes make this out in the headlamps if your battery is quite low and is using all the available output to recharge. It's just stuff competing for all the volts.

Just make sure the charging circuit is in good nick, and everything should be OK. If it's a bit unhealthy already, then heated grips will only make things worse, and could end up being trouble!

It's not the battery capacity that's important it's the charging system output so ensure all connectors are good & that the charging system is tip top

Technically, the correct way to fit accessories is to fit a relay connected to the battery & operated from a switched supply.
However, I normally wire heated grips to a fused spur from the fan circuit - based on the theory that in temps that the fan will come in, it's unlikely that you'll need heated grips. Several of my bikes are wired like this & have been fine.

Pip

Thanks for the information guys, along with the rest of the knowledge this forum has I should manage, if all goes well I may take some pics and do a little write up, but might take a while. I'll grab one of these cheapo china multimeters and get testing my charging system as per Rick O's beginner guide i found in the document library, think there's also a section in the Haynes manual too about checking it.

Thanks again Speedy! Every thread question I've had so far you've been a great help