http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NC30-Honda-VF ... 1c2e01e698. Would this work ok??

That depends on whether or not the bike you fit it on is set up for forced induction!

? Explain please

for a road bike - sod that, total ballache.
for a race bike - if you can be arsed to get it setup..go for it.

NC30 and 35's are very fussy about the air that goes in when they are stock. Just getting the stock airbox trumpet fitted badly or the various rubber mats at the front of the bike sat in the wrong place (or missing) can badly affect the way they run. If you drop this lid on a standard bike, it'll probably run like a sack of crap, if at all. I know little about ram air, save for the fact you need to do more than put a scoop on the airbox to run it successfully. I'm pretty sure that the extra air pressure will cause unmodified carbs to have fuel blown out the breathers due to the pressure difference unless you run the carb breathers back to the airbox. You'll also almost certainly need to play with the jetting to get the bike running right. I think it also requires a fuel pump, again due to pressurising the system, but I could be wrong there.

If you really want almost plug and play ram air, keep looking on eBay, Ali (abrmoto) has/had a couple of sets of ram air kit knocking about the last time I looked. At least drop him a PM and ask about how to do it.

Here's one of Ali's sets. Bear in mind that the scoop often needs a modified top rad too, like in his listing. However, this lot if for an NC35, so the carbs are different, although with a lot of extra fiddling they work on 30s too.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-RVF400- ... 3cccc6cac1

it is a total ballache.

You fit a scoop and nothing else and your bike will not rev out and be shite. When I was still super keen and learning my bike I tried pretty much everything. Ended up on RVF carbs and no airbox lid but a std filter and HRC lower tray. Worked lovely.

fitting the scoop caused issues on itself. You have to be sure to seal it and equalise the float bowl pressures or you'll not get any fuel. You also need a fuel pump fitting too.

As I said, race bike - do it...if you are serious. On a road bike, set it up lovely and std. They make fuck all power anyways and so having it work smoothly, reliably and without surging and bogging is far more important than another 2bhp.

For the record - I ran totally standard carbs on my race bike as the feel of them was so good. When I blew the motor and got rid I ended up selling my RVF open carbs and fitting the std setup to my road bike as it was so muc better, very nice fuelling, smooth as you like. Bike makes 59bhp (before engine change)

If you want power - clean the heads/piston crowns and intakes/exhausts, lap the valves, get it on a dyno and get it properly setup.

K&N power ups only exist for saxochavz

Well that's answered that lol think ill leave it cheers guys

This is the same airbox lid i got for my race bike. It made a good difference to the power. I followed viper bikers guide on setting up the ramair and it was not hard to do.
His guide it says to start off with 135 main jets and the bike ran pretty well but not quite rite. I got it on the dyno and we ended up with 142 jets and the bike flies and pulls well with little or no hesitation.
I would defo go for it if its a race or track bike.
Mine is standard engine with quieting gears removed, no flywheel, and ignitech and its making nearly 70bhp with this setup.!!
That lid cost me about £100 when i bought it new.

I run ramair on my race bike, and to be honest i dont notice it at any track other than Thruxton when you are well over 100mph. most tracks my bike feels teh same as it did with bog standard carbs.