Hi guys

Rode to work today and noticed that (yet again) I may as well not have any front brakes - the lever gets almost to the throttle before the brakes show any sign of working... I've had new front disks in the last 6 months, and the brakes have been bled, and the calipers cleaned out. I've tried twirling the twirly circle thing at the top of the brake lever - that adjusts how far away the lever is right? Well it barely makes any difference... Can anyone help me? I would love for my brakes to work properly!!

Thanks

Air in the system, ie they havent been bled properly or you have a leak somewhere but i guess you would have noticed that. Or your M/C is knackered

Daft question, but did new pads go on with the new discs? If they're really low it might give you a long brake lever. I'd check the pads aren't wafer thin, and then make sure there's the right amount of fluid in the reservoir before giving them a good bleed. If the pads are meaty, reservoir is topped up and the system is free of air, then as DM says, there might be a leak in the system (this would probably also cause a low fluid level over time), the M/C needs new seals, or maybe your fluid is really old and needs replacing. Over time, it can absorb moisture, and the brakes go spongy.

Try bleeding the air out of the hose top banjo.
Wrap a rag around the hose then loosen the bolt then just nip it back up again.

Now pull the lever on hard and undo the bolt a 1/8 turn or so, until the lever touches the bar.
Nip up the bolt and release the lever, do this several times until no air bubbles are visible.

Keep a check on the fluid level in the reservoir, and fully tighten the bolt on completion.

Thanks both for your replies - new pads went on with the disks so I'm thinking there might be a leak that I've somehow not discovered, or the m/c needs looking at - thanks both - I will look into this

Are you on the original hoses? OE rubber hoses have a life span of about 8 years and therefore any NC35 should be on at least it's third set now.

I did wonder about rubber hoses, however I figured it unlikely that anyone would buy rubber hoses as a replacement considering they cost more than a braided hose kit, which, damage aside, will last pretty much forever.

arsey30 wrote:Try bleeding the air out of the hose top banjo.
Wrap a rag around the hose then loosen the bolt then just nip it back up again.

Now pull the lever on hard and undo the bolt a 1/8 turn or so, until the lever touches the bar.
Nip up the bolt and release the lever, do this several times until no air bubbles are visible.

Keep a check on the fluid level in the reservoir, and fully tighten the bolt on completion.

Thanks for this, will be of great help when I come to look at it

Yeah I have braided lines, so no issue there...

Cheers guys

best way to get air out of the system,pull the cover off the M/C .... Pump the handle and old it mid way,take a tie wrap or bungee cord or something to hold the handle,let it sit over nite .... if you have no handle in the morning theres a bad fitting or crush washer ... i'll usually just bleed the bottom bleeder a touch after as well.There will be no air left

knedragon wrote:best way to get air out of the system,pull the cover off the M/C .... Pump the handle and old it mid way,take a tie wrap or bungee cord or something to hold the handle,let it sit over nite .... if you have no handle in the morning theres a bad fitting or crush washer ... i'll usually just bleed the bottom bleeder a touch after as well.There will be no air left

Yes, I have found that works, but I aim to get as much air out as possible first to maintain a good pressure in the system.