No brakes!

[em2evol]

Hi guys

Rode to work today and noticed that (yet again) I may as well not have any front brakes - the lever gets almost to the throttle before the brakes show any sign of working... I've had new front disks in the last 6 months, and the brakes have been bled, and the calipers cleaned out. I've tried twirling the twirly circle thing at the top of the brake lever - that adjusts how far away the lever is right? Well it barely makes any difference... Can anyone help me? I would love for my brakes to work properly!!

Thanks

[Drunkn Munky]

Air in the system, ie they havent been bled properly or you have a leak somewhere but i guess you would have noticed that. Or your M/C is knackered

[speedy231278]

Daft question, but did new pads go on with the new discs? If they're really low it might give you a long brake lever. I'd check the pads aren't wafer thin, and then make sure there's the right amount of fluid in the reservoir before giving them a good bleed. If the pads are meaty, reservoir is topped up and the system is free of air, then as DM says, there might be a leak in the system (this would probably also cause a low fluid level over time), the M/C needs new seals, or maybe your fluid is really old and needs replacing. Over time, it can absorb moisture, and the brakes go spongy.

[arsey30]

Try bleeding the air out of the hose top banjo.
Wrap a rag around the hose then loosen the bolt then just nip it back up again.

Now pull the lever on hard and undo the bolt a 1/8 turn or so, until the lever touches the bar.
Nip up the bolt and release the lever, do this several times until no air bubbles are visible.

Keep a check on the fluid level in the reservoir, and fully tighten the bolt on completion.

[em2evol]

Thanks both for your replies - new pads went on with the disks so I'm thinking there might be a leak that I've somehow not discovered, or the m/c needs looking at - thanks both - I will look into this

[thunderace]

Are you on the original hoses? OE rubber hoses have a life span of about 8 years and therefore any NC35 should be on at least it's third set now.

[speedy231278]

I did wonder about rubber hoses, however I figured it unlikely that anyone would buy rubber hoses as a replacement considering they cost more than a braided hose kit, which, damage aside, will last pretty much forever.

[em2evol]

Try bleeding the air out of the hose top banjo.
Wrap a rag around the hose then loosen the bolt then just nip it back up again.

Now pull the lever on hard and undo the bolt a 1/8 turn or so, until the lever touches the bar.
Nip up the bolt and release the lever, do this several times until no air bubbles are visible.

Keep a check on the fluid level in the reservoir, and fully tighten the bolt on completion.

Thanks for this, will be of great help when I come to look at it

Yeah I have braided lines, so no issue there...

Cheers guys

[knedragon]

best way to get air out of the system,pull the cover off the M/C .... Pump the handle and old it mid way,take a tie wrap or bungee cord or something to hold the handle,let it sit over nite .... if you have no handle in the morning theres a bad fitting or crush washer ... i'll usually just bleed the bottom bleeder a touch after as well.There will be no air left

[arsey30]

best way to get air out of the system,pull the cover off the M/C .... Pump the handle and old it mid way,take a tie wrap or bungee cord or something to hold the handle,let it sit over nite .... if you have no handle in the morning theres a bad fitting or crush washer ... i'll usually just bleed the bottom bleeder a touch after as well.There will be no air left

Yes, I have found that works, but I aim to get as much air out as possible first to maintain a good pressure in the system.