Guys i failed on the first attemptcos i could not undo the damper rod, from below. Haynes says toget someone to compress the forks ? How when using a headstock stand??
And do i need an allen key?
Thanks!!

Don't you have to take the forks off the bike for this?

Yes. The forks come out of the bike. An impact gun works well at getting that bolt out.

I think the Haynes says you might want to make a start on the top bolt before taking the forks out, but clearly they have to come off before you go any further! The bottom bolt will need an allen key. It's an 8mm bolt according to the fiche, but I'm not quite sure what size allen that equates to. If it's very tight (might be threadlocked, you don't exactly want it falling out!), you may need to find an allen socket and a nice big bar.

You dont need to remove the damper rod bolt to change the springs

speedy231278 wrote:I think the Haynes says you might want to make a start on the top bolt before taking the forks out, but clearly they have to come off before you go any further! The bottom bolt will need an allen key. It's an 8mm bolt according to the fiche, but I'm not quite sure what size allen that equates to. If it's very tight (might be threadlocked, you don't exactly want it falling out!), you may need to find an allen socket and a nice big bar.

Its A6 or 6hex dependant on your mechanical teachings,

Ive been lucky as said its only an M8 so max torque would be 28nM however for some strange reason haynes and honda recomend its locktite'd when the spindle is in place there is nowhere for that bolt to go and it wouldnt unwind enough to undo the damper rod. I never locktite.

I have a long A6 key which gives good torsion flex to ping it loose, but an impact guns your best bet

If you get stuck pop over to mine im not far from you racingt

I got the tools you need here

Drunkn Munky wrote:You dont need to remove the damper rod bolt to change the springs

^that just lift weight off forks undo cap and use a piece of cable and make a hook and fish them out in situe on bike.

porndoguk wrote:when the spindle is in place there is nowhere for that bolt to go and it wouldnt unwind enough to undo the damper rod.

Would it not leak fork oil round the threads if it wasn't tight though?

speedy231278 wrote:

porndoguk wrote:when the spindle is in place there is nowhere for that bolt to go and it wouldnt unwind enough to undo the damper rod.

Would it not leak fork oil round the threads if it wasn't tight though?

Not if you used a new copper washer