I have a leak in my exhaust where I am starting to narrow down to a gasket. Looking at my header studs they seem to be pretty rusted and due for new ones. I have read someone recommending using cut threaded rod as a replacement stud but bother with that when one can use some stainless socket headed cap screws.

Has anyone tried this or avoided trying this for any particular reason. It seems obvious and if somone hasnt done it, I might be missing something.

ive used threaded rod in the past, but now use 25mm A2 hex head bolts saves all the pissing around and cutting, dont forget your copperslip grease.

Rick

Ideally you'll probably want A4, that's the marine grade stuff, if you do want SS. Even with copperslip grease there's a lot of potential for corrosion between stainless and aluminium. Just be aware that there is a risk of wrecking the threads. Not such a problem putting stainless bar in as you don't want that to come back out. Use brass nuts on stainless studs then if anything goes wrong, the nuts break not the bar, the bar can be considered pretty much permanent.

Personally I prefer to put OE back in. Not OE-type, but OE. Cheap exhaust stud are cheap, the plating is crap so they rust and they may be made of cheese. Made that mistake once, won't do it again.

OE studs are pretty cheap, at least for the 30/35. 92900-06020-0E, 95p plus VAT from DSS. 90304-HB3-771 for the 'special' nuts which are a little more pricey at £2.25. The short rear header either has the studs cast into it, or they don't come on their own, the nuts for that are 90136-MT4-000 at £1.01, listed as an 8mm flange nut. The other nuts are 6mm according to the fiche. All the parts are the same on both bikes, although for the rear header the nut for the 30 is listed as 90301-MR8-000 and DSS say that's discontinued. I can't see why it would be any different, surely an 8mm flange nut is an 8m flange nut, or they'd call it a 'special' like the others....

I'd go for the OE ones myself, at least you know they'll last 20-odd years before you might want to think about replacing them.

Do the job right fit OE studs.New nuts copperslip and forget.

well the main reason for the chans is so that i can use allen wrenches which is wonderful for the tight spaces that even leprechauns have issues getting at...

good note on the copperslip grease

lalalandrus wrote:well the main reason for the chans is so that i can use allen wrenches which is wonderful for the tight spaces that even leprechauns have issues getting at...

good note on the copperslip grease

I wouldnt use allen heads on the engine, the heat makes them seize very easily, and allen heads also round out easy, a decent socket set with a UV joint cant help you out anywhere.

Rick

alright i guess tried tested and true is the way to go!

ill follow speedy's recommendations on the OE part numbers. can anyone confirm that the short header m8 studs are casted on? if so ill try to be extra careful with these ones.