With the ongoing saga of my overheating NC29 race bike, I'm getting the biggest possible radiator I can fit inside the fairing made for the bike. I just want to confirm the flow direction for the radiator before I go ahead and get it made.

Looking at the standard radiator it looks like the coolant would flow into the top of the radiator beneath the filler cap and then out the bottom of the radiator on the other side of the bike then into the water pump. I had an R6 radiator modified to do this and it made no difference to the cooling (or lack of) ability of this radiator.

Can anybody confirm this is correct or otherwise?

Thanks

Matt

Yes I am %99 sure it's how you described it.

tanuki wrote:Yes I am %99 sure it's how you described it.

Yeah, I spoke to the radiator guys and the flow nearly always is from the radiator, into the water pump, throught the engine to the thermostat and then back into the radiator.

Can't wait to get this built and stop the bike from overheating.

I read somewhere (maybe here) a tale of a guy who ripped the water pump out of his NC29, and dropped an electric pump inline just after the outlet from the where water pump would be. He reckoned it made a massive difference, he had been having heaps of overheating problems, but the water pump sorted them without the need to upsize the radiator. He reckoned it was the increase in flow that fixed it.

He could have been talking out of his arse, but worth a look (at the water pump, I mean. Not his arse)

Pleiades wrote:I read somewhere (maybe here) a tale of a guy who ripped the water pump out of his NC29, and dropped an electric pump inline just after the outlet from the where water pump would be. He reckoned it made a massive difference, he had been having heaps of overheating problems, but the water pump sorted them without the need to upsize the radiator. He reckoned it was the increase in flow that fixed it.

He could have been talking out of his arse, but worth a look (at the water pump, I mean. Not his arse)

Thanks I'll look into it as well, but I've already given the guys the go ahead to start the rad. I'll probably remove the whole thermostat as opposed to just gutting it as well to try to increase the flow.

This bike is a keeper, it's just so much fun to ride at our track, so I'll just keeping investing in (well spending on) parts. Lucky I've got 'sponsorshop' from my GF's business so she can claim the costs.

You are going to have to get a HUUUUUUGE Radiator to keep it cool. The problem is that you are running on Kart tracks. You are not getting up to speed where the airflow is enough to cool the bike.

Do this, after you get it put back together of course. Take it to road where you can go in circles, but one that will allow you a 0.5KM straight or so. Keep going up to redline and shifting back down. Trying to simulate a track as much as possible.

See if it overheats. Bet it doesn't. Also I replied to your other post about a larger airbox. RAM air doesn't really take effect until you get over 60mph/100kph or so. Some say not until 100mph/160kph

cajun wrote:You are going to have to get a HUUUUUUGE Radiator to keep it cool. The problem is that you are running on Kart tracks. You are not getting up to speed where the airflow is enough to cool the bike.

Do this, after you get it put back together of course. Take it to road where you can go in circles, but one that will allow you a 0.5KM straight or so. Keep going up to redline and shifting back down. Trying to simulate a track as much as possible.

See if it overheats. Bet it doesn't. Also I replied to your other post about a larger airbox. RAM air doesn't really take effect until you get over 60mph/100kph or so. Some say not until 100mph/160kph

Definitely understand the problem is the lack of speed and airflow. The problem is getting worse as I'm getting the gearing closer to right and my lap times are decreasing.

The rad is going to be as big as can possibly fit in the front of the fairing, so the top part is a little bit bigger than the size of the R6 rad and then the bottom part (it's all one though) is about 2/3 the size of the R6 rad. It's going to be straight not curved like the R6 one so I can wire a proper radiator fan in as well.

I'm lucky where I am I can go out and practice any day there isn't a race for $60 for a whole day, so don't need the simulation.

One interesting thing with the ramair box, when we were dynoing the bike, a couple of times the front duct hadn't been reattached and it made 1.5hp less each time, so even stationary on a dyno the duct has an effect.