Hi All,

Currently I have a stock RVF exhaust with Scorpion bolt on endcan.

I'm looking to buy a nice second hand aftermarket exhaust system (possibly new) for road use.

Basically I'm in need of advice & guidance.

My initial requirements are -

needs to fit standard NC35 bodywork
needs to not interfere with sidestand
Not so loud that I get a convoy of coppers following me
MOTable - tho my tester is rather forgiving (I'd not be wanting to change to my standard system yearly for an MOT)

Would I be right in thinking that all aftermarket exhausts will require re-jetting/Dyno'ing? - would I see much of a performance increase?
Would I be right in thinking that I'd need to be telling my insurance co about the change? Is this likely to affect my premium much?

A guide as to what ballpark prices might be for different exhaust systems would be VERY useful - tho price is not my main concern.

I'd also like to understand the benefits of full, 3/4 & 1/2 systems

So - please all chime in with your suggestions as to what I should be looking for - I like the SP1 style systems but am open to consider all others.

Does anyone else supply new other than Jap4/Tyga?

This isn't a "wanted" post - purely for info to guide my thinking as to what I'm looking for!

Many thanks in advance - I really need your help here guys

Cheers
Chris

Lots of questions, I will try and get through a few.

1. Pretty much all aftermarket exhausts will fit standard bodywork, only the high level TSR Sp system might be close to clearing the indicators and seatunit. Mhp Sp system I believe is close to the R/H side back lower.

2. Quite a lot of systems do touch the side stand when it's retracted, Ethos, Mercury and some TSR's but it's easily sorted by either pushing the system in a bit then respringing or spacing the stand out a bit.

3. MOT purposes (the way I see it anyway) is if it doesn't have any markings like 'Not for road use' and it isn't horrendously loud Ie Tyga Maggot. I don't think they can fail it, they just put an advisory down.
4. You would Defintely need to rejet from standard even with a half system. Easy job and it's nice to know what settings you have in your carbs for further problems you might have at a later date.
5. Prices. Anything from 50 quid for a can up to 1000 for a rare piece of kit. Popular brands. Ethos, mercury,beet,TSR,JHA,Tyga all discontinued apart from Tyga. So it's mainly the second hand Market.
6. Half systems are most popular and easy to fit as they use the standard stubby manifold at the rear and the standard front pipes.
3/4 systems again easy to fit but rarer as they incorporate the front pipes and still use the rear stubby.
Full systems. Are rare, harder to fit as the stubby is removed as are the front pipes. Only a few companies do or did the full system. At the moment Tyga and Hiperform are still making them.
7. Performance over the system I doubt you will see any performance gains over a half system and 3/4 system as the standard front pipes were pretty good.
There may be a performance gain with full systems but I don't know if the stubby manifold was restrictive. But with all the major Japanese tuning companies concentrating on half systems I doubt it's so bad.

There will be performance gains over different systems and all are better than the stock system which was very restrictive in the end can I believe.

The real gain is weight, the standard system is heavy as hell compared stainless or TI .

I'm not sure there's no gain at all to be had from a full system ovver a 1/2 system.

My RVF has an MHP twin stack 1/2 system, it actually uses more than just the rear stubby and the front pipes. The original system has been cut at a point just after the 2-1 joins from the front and the rear headers. i.e. this;

is all you get if you buy one, the rest of the exhaust is Honda.

It makes a fraction of a bhp less than a stock RVF motor with a full Tyga twin stack. Kev (who runs Projex dyno in Birmingham and owns said RVF with a full Tyga twin stack) was sure the main "problem" is the pipes though it is a tad lean in the upper middle range (near 15.5 on the A/F) and there's a nasty dip in the power curve to match that lean spot.

Fontyy, its common for RLR, MHP etc to use chopped up RVF systems to make twin stacks and SP1 systems, there actually pretty good systems and i bet with a few runs on the dyno your see high 70's from it. IRRC your bike has a fair amount of engine work done to it.

Drunkn Munky wrote: i bet with a few runs on the dyno your see high 70's from it. IRRC your bike has a fair amount of engine work done to it.

I'll take that bet....high 70's.....this is an RVF400, not a ZXR4xx.

Lol sorry I meant high 60's, kevs bike makes 65 doesn't it?

Yep.

I'll have to pull the carbs off and see what's inside them.

I'm not planning on spending a fortune on it, the idea of racing a 400 is that it just works, but if there is an easy horse or two to be had I'll take them

Great info ibby, cheers for that - just what I was looking for.

Would I be right in thinking that there is NO difference between NC30 & NC35 aftermarket systems?

Cheers

No difference mate. If your looking for a system I might have something pm me.

Kris