How hard will it be to change the the front and rear wheel bearings ??
Failed mot !
How hard will it be to balance carbs , ?
And how hard to take bike apart to get frame polished and sub frame paint ?
Thanks you

How longs a piece of string?

Front wheel bearings are quite easy.. there about 4 quid each and you can knock the old ones out and new ones in with a socket.

Rear bearings are a bit more pain in the ass.. there about 70 quid for a set and you have a double ball race and a needle roller.. you need to take the cush-drive off, remove the hard to see circlip and pop the hub out.. not difficult but fiddley.

Taking the bike to bits to polish to frame is a bit much.. just remove the panels so you can see the frame and use some autosol on it.

Do I need any special tools? I'm guessing David sliver for parts ?
One more thing the mot inspector said the throttle didn't renture quick enough , said could be badly routed cables or vacuum gone in carb ??
Thanks neo

If he means the cables, then it'll be bad cable routing / stiff cables.

DSS / Rick O might have the parts.

I got a quote for wheel bearings , £11 quid each for the 2 front and 55 for one of the rear and 50 for the over rear !! Is this a good price ? I'm sure vat will be added on as well

Where'd you get the quote from? DSS usually has a cheap wheel bearing in stock

DSS I got the quote off !
The don't mind paying for them if that's the going rate but I said around 70 for both so thought I would ask u advice , I was wondering what the crush drive was ?

Cush drive is the blocks of rubber in the hub that the chain pulls to turn the rear wheel.

My advice is to jack the rear up and remove everything to get the hub out and see what the bearings are like.. if your unlucky then there all fried and you'll have to replace them all.

Often it's the Koyo 6908RS double caged ball race thats knackered and the needle roller is fine so no need to replace.

Loosen wheel bolts, loosen 32mm? Nut on chain side.

Jack up and remove wheel.

Get rear brake caliper of.


Remove Big nut on chain side, washer and the cushdrive / sprocket unit should pull off (you might need to adjust so theres slack in the chain so you can slip the chain off.

After you get the cush-drive off theres a little spacer and under that a small spring clip that needs to be removed, with that off. You should be able to pull the axle out of the hub by pulling the wheel side out.

You can then see the bearings, might be difficult to check with them still in the hub (If you remove the adjuster bolts you can pop the hub out of the swining arm now.

Once you have access to the bearings clean all the grease out of them with parafin / wd-40 etc.

Make sure they are superclean and no grease (only way to check reliabliy)

If theres any sign of rust of pitting then replace.

If they are clean see which have play in them.. they should rotate smoothly but you shouldn't be able to rock them.

You then need to order what you need and replace as needed.

Thanks ! I'll start work on the back wheel tomorrow , I should be able to do the front one pretty easy !
I don't no if you remember saying before about the bike over reving and under reving and you advice was to check the rubbers connecting to the cylinder ?
Well iv took carbs off and the rubbers look ok but DSS said there only 6 pound a pair so order so new ones ! Well iv got carbs off is there any sort of a clean up guide floating about on the site or help to check there balanced ? Sorry to be a pain !

No worries!

Follow Cammos carb guide sticky thread but don't do any of the NC30 performance mods.

Check the emulsion tubes are in the right way around. More holes (5) go in the rear carbs.

Set the float heights to 6.8mm and carb pilot screws to 2 turns out, screw them all in lightly till they don't turn anymore then open them 2 full turns (put a dot on the handle of the screwdriver to make it easy to count a full turn)

Make sure all jets and passageways are super clean... no need to split the carbs into 4 parts, just remove float bowls and caps.. work on one carb at a time unless the parts are mixed up.

Each cylinder has a screw and washer on it somewhere for vaccum gauges to connect to balance the carbs.. make sure these are all in place else you'll get a leak and it'll knacker up the idling.