Had a quick search but couldn't really find anything.

Currently got a problem on the RVF, that when im batting on a bit if im in a particular bumpy section the thing just will not co-operate. Today it wouldn't hold a line properly and i had my feet bucked off the pegs twice. Unless it is brand new smooth tarmac its a bit of a handful. Im still on the original equipment (forks had new oil in them last year).

So where would i actually start to adjust to try and soften it up (in regards to forks/shock first)? Im a pit perplexed on the concepts of preload/roubound and what the correct amount should be. I did change the preload on the forks but they made no difference so reverted back.

Or is it a case of the original stuff being knackered and needing replacement/servicing?

Thanks
Tom.

SOunds like the shock needs binning and a rebuilt replacement fitting.. simple as that. No point twiddling a knackered shock.

You can adjust rebound on it on the bottom end of the shock (I assume) so give that a few turns in and see if it actually has some damping

Dead easy.
Find a good suspension expert, eg MCT in Stowmarket or similar, book it in, open your wallet, hey they bike rides better than most new bikes in the showroom.
Costs a bit, but it is set to suit your weight, riding style, wether you take a pillion, the roads you ride etc.
Your 18year old ride built for a Japanese guy will ride like a new bike built for you.
Gets my vote every time!

Except the RVF shock is a pile of crap and cant/isnt worth being serviced, get yourself a late spec VFR one at the very least.

Hi Wallie,

My RVF is a stock '94 model with nearly 20,000kms on the clock. It was behaving as you mentioned until I took a step back and base-lined the suspension setup, setting the static sag and rider sag, front and back. I then reverted the forks and shocks to standard settings, tested it for response, then took it for a run. From what I recall i had to apply a little extra compression damping.

Do some googling for suspension setup - there is lots of good info out there. Unfortunately I don't have my references with me. If this fails to fix the problem, then you probably need to consider a rebuild, or replacement of your forks and shock.

Hope this helps,

Ben.

Mines just hit 46,000km so has gone through a fair bit more. Tried adjusting the shock yesterday and it was having none of today it so time for some new trinkets I think.

Im thinking a nitron rear shock and possibly a rick oliver fork uprate kit, might as well get them both done. Ill find some reviews on them and see how money is at the end of next month. Might as well now as i plan to keep it a few more years.

Thanks for advice guys.

Is that because the adjusters were stuck Wallie?

If you speak to a local suspension tuning shop you might be able to get the shock revalved and overhauled. Let them know how much you weigh too and if your spring isnt right for your weight then change it out.

As far as Ricks kit goes it is worth the money, just again tell him how much you weigh.

Dave Moss's video might help too...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mK3flKxf41U

Just had my nc30 done via MCT, highly recommended. Upgraded forks and new Wilbers rear shock as the original was beyond repair/rebuild. Set up for my weight, use etc and although not cheap, not bad either. Worth it? Hell yes!! The difference is amazing. Bike handles better than most new bikes and is bespoke to me, can't ask for more.

I just stripped the forks and shock out and posted them to MCT via Parcel monkey, cost less than a tenner, told them my details and riding etc then got them back fully done with set up sheet too and telephone advice if required for any other fine tuning.

Paul.

dx4 wrote:Is that because the adjusters were stuck Wallie?

No it was just that it made no difference. Got fairly decent roads round here and i use one as a benchmark, and no matter what i changed it just didnt want to know. Any bump it seems to react very violently, seems to have got worse over the winter.

quality wrote:Just had my nc30 done via MCT, highly recommended. Upgraded forks and new Wilbers rear shock as the original was beyond repair/rebuild. Set up for my weight, use etc and although not cheap, not bad either. Worth it? Hell yes!! The difference is amazing. Bike handles better than most new bikes and is bespoke to me, can't ask for more.

I just stripped the forks and shock out and posted them to MCT via Parcel monkey, cost less than a tenner, told them my details and riding etc then got them back fully done with set up sheet too and telephone advice if required for any other fine tuning.

Paul.

What Wilbers shock did you go for the one with damping adjustment or none? Ones £100 cheaper which may sway me

I only just recently purchased some rebuilt and modded early model NC30 forks. These have stiffer Ohlins springs and racetech compression damping emulators. Also an earlier model aprillia rs250 shock, which again has been revalved and reprung. Until this point I was running on original NC30 gear.

I took it to my local race track just yesterday and it makes a world of difference. It doesn't bottom in the front under hard braking. It doesn't bottom in the rear mid turn. With the higher ride height in the rear, it turns in quicker and is able to hold a tighter line without drifting wide. There is still no control over rebound damping in the front, but otherwise it is a marked improvement over stock.