Hello fellow RVF riders,

First time posting here unfortunately with a battery issue.(Not sure if i've put in right sections. Mods go ahead and amend if need be)

Have had my 96 RVF (Tyga kit w/ maggot exhaust) close to 5 months now with no issues whatsoever.

This morning tried to start it and the battery choked for about 5 secs then cut out. Tried to clutch start it and even then it wasn't even clicking over.

This has just happened and out of nowhere. Always garaged and rode it 2 days ago.

Do i need a new battery ( the boys at MCA Auburn said the type for my bike is a Dynomaster YTX7ABS at just $57.95). Are there in fact a better battery to be installed??

Or is it in fact a reg/rec. issue that is prone to the fireblades... Or am I just being a dumbo and have missed something out along the troubleshooting lines???

Any help on this is much appreciated before i go forking out on unnecessary stuff

BTW love your bikes HAHAHA

Battery might have dropped a cell, can happen. How old is the battery? You need to measure the battery voltage when loaded ie lights on or when cranking the engine. Less than 10 volts is not good although would try charging the battery before replacing it. Then check that charging system by measuring voltage once engine is running. Battery voltage should be 13-14 volts with engine rpm >5000.

New battery time by the sound of it. If you can afford the extra, go for a GEL battery.

Oh, and get yourself an Optimate or similar trickle charger

you can also run a YTX9 sized battery instead of the YTX7 - it is 15mm taller but most of us run one as it gives the bike a better kick in the mornings!

Checking the charge system is always a good call - they are older bikes and they do eat reg recs now adn again.

Welcome to the site..

Yep welcome.

Reg Rec's are pretty fragile.. a dying battery will strain the reg/rec and they die easy.

Charge the battery with a proper charger.

See how easy it starts the bike.

Once it's running check the charging system.

Mulitmeter at hand. set to 20v DC.. measure at the battery.

Voltage at idle: (No lights)
voltage at idle: lights

Same as above at 5000rpm. post back results and await instruction.

Ok, so i checked the batt with a multimeter. It's giving out 11.9v. No good. So i'm going to charge it first and then try to start it. Will let you guys know soon...

Dashaks wrote:Ok, so i checked the batt with a multimeter. It's giving out 11.9v. No good. So i'm going to charge it first and then try to start it. Will let you guys know soon...

Yep, battery is very discharged.

If it comes back to life and you have no further charging problems try to keep it charged up (optimate / bike charger one every couple of weeks if it's not in use)

The battery deteriorates the more it's deeply discharged, it will also put greater strain on the electrical system.

If i know it's no good now and if it starts after it's charged wouldn't the smarter thing to go and buy a new battery... I mean i'm all new to the "fixing the bike when something goes wrong with it".

Again... Thanks heaps to all that has helped so far :D

Yes, best to replace a battery that does not hold a charge but you could also have a dud charging system and the battery was simply not getting charged while riding. If the battery voltage recovers to better than 12.5 volts after charging, try starting the bike, do the load tests as suggested and also test the charging system.

OK so here are the results with the multimeter...
Voltage @ No lights - 12.81
Voltage @ Lights on - Started at 12.4 then dropped 0.01 every 3-5secs to about 12.26 then i took the multimeter off

Voltage @ Engine on idle - 12.23
Voltage @ Revving 5000rpms rose to 13.17 then took the multimeter off

Time for a new battery??? What was the cause that on a wednesday it was fine then 2 days later this problem occured??? Or in fact do nothing and leave it guys???

All in all it's been an experience me and my baby have bonded over

Oh and BTW this all just gos to show what a shit clutch-starter i am hehehe