do i need to grind/machine down the inside of the left hand frame spar where the mounting bolts go in as the motor is butted right up against it, or will tims mounting plates get round this as i cant see how i can get a mounting plate between the motor and frame.the engine slotted in nicely but im now a bit worried that i may have to attack my lovely frame with an angle grinder any ideas guys.or praps ive put the motor in incorrectly.many thanks-steve

now, i've not done this conversion, but.. seeing as frame grinding, or the engine being offset has not been mentioned by others..

is your frame straight ?

hope so-ive been riding it for two years and i must admit it has crossed my mind.but ive just found another post that details the same problem and it seems that when the plates are fitted it will sit straight.i can get about 5mm clearance if i lift or pull the motor up and to the side(its only in loose) so ill have to wait until the plats arrive

Steve,

Have you thought about which bolts you are going to use to mount the plates to the engine?

They need to be metric fine countersunk bolts. When Tim did his conversion he re-tapped his head to a metric thread, these bolts are readily available.

I am a bit reluctant to re-tap (I'm not confident in my ability to do it right first time!) and found that the only M10x1.25 countersunk bolts available are titanium and from Pro Bolt. Only downside is that they are £5 each!

Alex.

i wouldnt use titanium for an engine mount bolt regardless of the price.

Why is that?

I thought that titanium was stronger than steel and suitable for load bearing applications!

Alex.

its stronger than ally, its not stronger than steel. Its also more brittle and susceptible to vibration.

this is why you arent allowed titanium wheel/swingarm spindles in racing

but you are allowed titanium disc bolts ... which must have a big shear force put on them and vibrate as they're unsprung.
I'd used the titainium bolts on the engine

I'm going to have to use them, cos I can't find any others and I don't want to retap the head!

I've even spoken to someone who had them on their website, but cannot make them anymore as they can't get shouldered M10 bolts to rethread!!

We'll see what happens...

Alex.

Evilchicken0 wrote:but you are allowed titanium disc bolts ... which must have a big shear force put on them and vibrate as they're unsprung.
I'd used the titainium bolts on the engine

true, but the vibration is very different as are the temperatures.. i've got titanium disc bolts, so i hope they're safe, cant really comment as the bike's never been ridden.

they are bloody light though .. all 10 weigh less than 2 OE bolts.