Should I be able to push the bike around in 6th gear while the clutch is engaged? I can't push it in first, the wheel locks. I just need to know, so I know if my clutch is fixed or not, considering I can't ride the bike to find out.

Yes you should be able to,

i used to do this on my car when doing valve clearances, stick it in 5th and push the car and back and forth to adjust the valves/tappets, easier than jacking it up and turning the engine over,

I've push mine while in first gear with clutch pulled in if that's any help.

Magg he means in gear and clutch out

My error, I took "engaged" to mean the clutch locked up. Does Jashdown mean it freewheels in 6th when pushed?

magg wrote:My error, I took "engaged" to mean the clutch locked up. Does Jashdown mean it freewheels in 6th when pushed?

yes, effectivley the gear ratios will allow it when the engine is dead.

1st gear easy to accelerate when engine runing - hard to push when engine dead
6th gear hard to accelerate when engine runing - easy to push when engine dead

that make sence?

Another misinterpretation on my part. So Jashdown meant that he could push the bike in 6th gear with the clutch released and the engine would rotate, he was not suggesting that the clutch was slipping. This being the case, then I agree this is possible because of the gear ratios.

Yeah I meant with lever at rest. Clutch engaged - lever at full extension, clutch disengaged - lever pulled in.

Ok, just curious because when my clutch was rooted, I couldn't remember whether it was 1st or 6th I was able to push it around while the clutch was engaged. The problem with the clutch was that it couldn't give maximum friction. We found the cause for this; The clutch nut was over-tightened substantially, and the threads on the input shaft were damaged, then with constant pressure on the threads from the clutch being used, they finally gave way, and about 4 threads were sheared off, causing the nut to slip down one thread width, which meant the clutch now had about 1-1.5mm more play, which was causing the slipping.

It's the most bizarre clutch problem I've ever come across, but it's fixed now, so I'm happy. Another way I can tell it's fixed without riding the bike, is that the clutch lever operation is back to how it was when the clutch was operating correctly, it's firm and springy. After it failed, the lever felt a bit softish, not firm at all, and the springiness was much less apparent.

So happy it's fixed, now just need to sort out a few other niggling issues, and the bike will be up and running again. Soooooo excited!