As i'm doing the forks I was going to pull the head bearing apart for inspection/grease/replace as neccesary.
I know there's a special tool but is it really required or can you do the job without?
Also about to fit the RO Fork Kit. Any advise. Have Abba stand and done forks before on other bikes.
Phil

anyone comment please?

not really, just usually garage tools just dependant on what you got,

41mm socket for the yoke stem nut, allen keys for the yoke/fork clamps, torx keys for the ignition lock if you wish to remove but can be done without, a drift or screw driver to knock the bearing races out,

getting the bottom race off the yoke can be awkward, i needed a blowtorch, lump hammer and cold chissel etc, it was a BITCH!

Thanks,
I have all those tools (press, compessor etc too), I was under the impression there was some sort of locking nut under the top yolk that needs a tool similar to the swingam locknut, that you need to torque up. I'm only intending on pulling it apart to inspect the bearings, but if it needs new ones I'll do them.
Going to fit he RO fork it (which I got off Lip) and maybe refurbish the fork legs and discs too

philfingers wrote:Thanks,
I have all those tools (press, compessor etc too), I was under the impression there was some sort of locking nut under the top yolk that needs a tool similar to the swingam locknut, that you need to torque up. I'm only intending on pulling it apart to inspect the bearings, but if it needs new ones I'll do them.
Going to fit he RO fork it (which I got off Lip) and maybe refurbish the fork legs and discs too

sorry yeah youll need a c spanner or a screw driver to undo this doesnt need torquing up as it only needs tightening until the bearing are at the point of just right before to tight ot to loose,

Ah ok. I'd read somewhere that on NC's they were unusual in that the head bearings were tightened to a set torque. should read the manual before i start asking Qs!

by rights they are phil, however once you have changed a few you get to know how far to go.
i tighten by hand till semi stiff on genuine, then slacken 1/8th of a turn, tighten the lower pinch bolts, then the head nut before the top pinch bolts.

thanks for the advice, looks like a good week to do it, with high winds and heavy rain forecast!

Well just come in from the garage. Frightening how loose everything was, the top stem nut and the two below it were finger tight!
Do you know if the top bearing is available seperately, the seals are very good, as is the lower bearing but the upper is pitted, not badly but i'd replace it whilst it's. out. Part number SF07A17PX1
Forks were poor too, some play in the bushes and judging by the rounded off hex in the bottom and the colour of the oil inside the one hadn't been apart in a long time. Bolt drilled out and lowers off to be powder coated tomorrow.
quick look on ebay shows http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-VFR400- ... 5ae09de87d is it better to replace the OE style angular contact bearings with taper roller type for £30
Can i just buy the upper taper roller type http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p43749 ... _info.html
tho I guess it's better to just get a whole kit

If the bottom bearing is good, there is no problem just changing the top one but use the same style as the bottom.
If the pitting is very slight you could leave the top & grease up - it's the bottom one that needs to be tip top as it's the one that takes the load. It all depends how finnicky you are

Taper bearings tend to take load better than ball races but I wouldn't worry too much, either is more than up to the job if well greased up


Phil