Clutch Spring Bolts - Driving me mad !

[400_Rider]

TOTALLY not happy guys with how this is going

I have got new clutch spring bolts from Robinsons Foundry and I even managed to get all 5 heavy duty springs in.

However I went to torque em up, and SNAP a bolt snapped off, again, these things just will not torque up even to 10nm without snapping.

Heres a pic :



I mean should the heavy duty ones even torque up ? and there a spring they will never reach 10nm anyway as they will constantly compress, it's doin me head in and am still off road

I have managed to tighten them up in sequence by hand until they stop and are tight, but I ain't going to torque em up again for em to just snap on me again, so will this be ok do you think ? and anyone know why there snapping ?

As soon as I hear from you guys and get the all clear I will go put the new clutch cover gasket on and fill her up full of fresh oil, but I cannot tighten these bolts any more cos they just snap all the time.

Cheers.

[400_Rider]

* UPDATE *

I thought bugger it, clutch bolts felt tight enough to me, so I put the new clutch cover gasket on and tightened the cover up, filled her full of fresh oil, I played with the clutch a bit and whatta ya know, I can put the bike in gear and with the clutch pulled in still move the back wheel :D

I couldn't do that last time I rode it as the basket shattered.

My only concern now is because the bolts were screwed in so far until 1 snapped, this will have obviously weakened the other bolts, I hope this doesn't cause a problem down the line, if 1 bolt was to snap while in operation it could ruin the clutch which just cost me £120

Anyway my final question before a road test is ...

CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT

From what I can see there are 3 methods of adjustment :

1. The large circle at the lever
2. The other end of the clutch cable going into the clutch housing with locking nut
3. Front sprocket side little tiny screw and adjuster

Can someone give me some tips on how to adjust all these 3 to have the clutch working properly.

Many thanks.

Matt :)

[M1KE]

First screw both cable end adjusters in so they give maximum play in the cable. Then undo the locknut and screw in the little screw in the middle till you feel light pressure. Then reverse a 1/4 turn. Now adjust the cable adjuster nearest the engine to remove the free play in the cable leaving you with about 2-3mm freeplay on the lever. Now if you ever need to adjust the clutch by the roadside you have the top cable adjuster with maximum ability of moverment.

[400_Rider]

Nooo not again !

Got bike outside, started her up, wicked all systems go.

I was adjusting the clutch at the cable end and trying the lever when all of a sudden it went kinda limp

I set all the adjusters back to standard and tried again and got the clutch feel back, however, when the bike is in gear with the clutch untouched the wheel still spins

So even though I have good feel at the clutch, when I put it in first gear without even touching the clutch lever the rear wheel still spins as though the clutch is pulled in when it isnt.

Even with all the clutch adjusters slackened off when I put the bike in gear the wheel is still spinning when it should be locked in drive gear.

Any ideas what I have done or how I can fix this, oh man this is pants

[400_Rider]

*** Update ***

I decided to pull the clutch cover off and drain the engine oil to see whats going on.

Now I am pretty sure that the inner clutch basket plate where the clutch spring bolts go never span before, well it does now.

I can spin this by hand easy with the bike in neutral, when I put the bike in gear without even using the clutch the wheel also spins freely and again this plate spins as the rear wheel spins :



Anyone know what else I have broke ?

Cheers.

Matt.

[M1KE]

Hmm that sortv'e seems to make it suggest that the clutch plates youve put in arent thick enough?? or somethings jammed meaning the clutch is always disengaged.

[400_Rider]

Right this is final update, because from here on I havent got a clue what to do and could really do with some advice ...

I've taken the clutch out now and all seams ok :

Inner clutch basket is fine, bike is in gear and I can still rotate the clutch basket easily by hand.


No signs of any probs with the outer clutch basket.


I had the clutch working fine and as I was making adjustments at the lever something gave and then the lever went all soft, I managed to adjust it all again and got full pressure back at the lever but then when I put the bike in gear with the engine off the rear wheel still spins by hand.

So guys anyone know what I need to do now ? my tools are limited and I know I am going to need extra tools to take off the outer clutch basket, anyone know where I can get them to do the job.

A very sad,

Matt

[400_Rider]

Guys just had another look does this tell us anything ?

The outer clutch basket has always been solid, but I just gave it a little pull and a giant washer came away, then a big spacer and a roller bearing came out, heres the pic of it :



Now the outer clutch basket is just hanging there, is this right ? isn't the outer clutch basket supposed to be torqued to like 140nm ? because this is just hanging down



Do you think were any closer to finding out whats goin on ?

[400_Rider]

OK guys I want to run past you what could be a realistic situation.

Is it not possible, that when I adjusted the clutch, and everything was fine and it was working, then all of a sudden something felt like it gave way, is it not possible that the outer clutch basket was pushed off the cogs (numbered 1 and 2) as the locking nut may not have been tight enough ?

Could that scenario present the problems I have had ? to me it looks imperative that the outer clutch basket must slot into both the teeth of the cogs in the engine bay.







I've never divuldged into an engine this far before ever in me life, I feel like a proper gynecologist LOL.

[M1KE]

If the inner clutch basket was done up tight enough the outer one wouldnt move. What does worry me though is you dont have a bolt in your flywheel.