How do you set the float height?

mactat2 · Post by **mactat2** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 7:57 pm

Seems the bike is running very rich (when its running!) plugs black and wet(sooty not oily) does anyone know the best way to set the float height and what the float height should be? Oh the bikes a 1992 gsf 400 vc. Need to get this sorted before i torch the bike lol Went out on it yesterday after tweeking the mixture screw, ran great. Got to a set of lights and it cut out. Went to restart and flat battery so thats something else i gotta try and fix

mactat2 · Post by **mactat2** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 9:02 pm

just took the carbs off, turned them upside down and removed the float bowls and measured the float heights.
I measured from the carb body (bit the float bowl seats to) to the highest point of each float and got the following measurements 15mm, 13.75mm, 13.6mm, 14.3mm??

Also are float bowl seals still available? if so where can i get them as these have compressed to the point they barely seal.

cheers

Post by **Variablevalves suck** » Wed Jul 06, 2011 8:36 am

Run mine at 15mm and get good initial pickup. The bowl gaskets are available from Suzi at about £7 each so i'd wash them in warm soapy water and reuse if they dont leak.

mactat2 · Post by **mactat2** » Wed Jul 06, 2011 6:36 pm

Hi Chris,
Dont suppose you fancy a trip to blackpool to sort this heap out do you? all expenses paid of course

took it for mot last wednesday ran fine there and back, the missus took it out this monday kept cutting out at junctions. wound the mixture screws out 1/2 a turn to 2 turns out, started fine, ran fine didnt smell so rich, i get to a set of lights 3/4 of a mile from home it cuts out, try to start it battery flat and had to push the bugger home!
Stripped the carbs today, cleaned and blasted them with compressed air. Set the floats to 14.5mm, mixture screws 1.5 turns out and nothing. Pulled a plug out and no spark, i'm really starting to hate this bike

so now i gotta find out why its not sparking, find out why its not charging and sort the carbs out

Float bowl seals are knackered mate, tried cleaning them but theyre too far gone.

mactat2 · Post by **mactat2** » Wed Jul 06, 2011 9:11 pm

Here i go again lol

a couple more questions....

is this rubber bung (just behind and to the left of the main jet in the pic) supposed to be a tight fit?

Would i be correct in thinking that these two wires green and a black with a white trace are supposed to be linked to the side stand switch? just found this little bodge hiding behind some insulation tap

The bike didnt have a sidestand switch when i got it, however i've now got one fitted and looking for where it should attach?
Should it have a clutch switch too? anyone got one fitted to their bike?

Next up been having a quick look for anything obvious that could be causing my no spark/no charge (or battery drain) issue. One of the relays in the rear end which i think is the side stand/clutch switch relay would appear to be dead! one nasty corroded connection (the live) was going to clean it and re connect see if it would start. Then when i moved it heard a rattle!! something in theres broke and it sounds quite big lol
Is there a relay on another suzuki that can be used to replace this or has it got to be from a bandit 400? Also should the live to this relay be permanently live e.g ignition turned off and its still live?

Sorry to waffle on guys, just want to get it sorted, as the missus is getting a bit disheartend with it now

Wed Jul 06, 2011 10:14 pm

The bung over the pilot jet dont need to be tight as it swells once the bowl is full of fuel, it makes the pilot jet get its fuel via the main system rather than straight from the bowl.
Black/white is the neutral/return and runs the whole bike, if you reconnect the side stand switch then the bike stalls if put in gear with the stand down, no clutch switch on the VVC.
The large relay with 6 terminals but only 4 wires connected is the ignition reley and if it is broken the bike will not run, i had one go in the same way (corroded terminal) and the bike stops dead! its under the L/H side panel and gets all the water from the rear, the red wire to this will be live (same as one to ignition).
Im not 100% but think if you get 12v at the red/white (from ignition switch) the relay switches the red across to the orange, or the other way around- sure its red to orange. So you would have 12v at the red that runs from the main fuse to the ignition- switch on and red/white is live to relay then returned via the BLK/WH and this switches the red over to orange that goes to cdi/coil.
Dont see why a two way 4 pin reley carnt be used so long as you connect up correctly.

mactat2 · Post by **mactat2** » Thu Jul 07, 2011 7:23 am

Chris Your a star!! I owe you a beer

i'll see what spare relays i've got and try a four pin.
i'll post how i get on.
cheers mate

mactat2 · Post by **mactat2** » Thu Jul 07, 2011 1:24 pm

Been tinkering again, red (perm live) across to orange yep...blk/wht red/wht power to the relay magnet.....only problem no switched power to red/wht? so got to look into that. When you turn the ignition on you do hear a relay click, its a small one with 4 connections grn/yel, org/yel, org/blk, org with blk squares whats that one do?

Here's a couple of pics of the inside of the blown relay......

Blown capacitor and fried resister, seems an awful lot of components in there for just a relay??

mactat2 · Post by **mactat2** » Thu Jul 07, 2011 7:35 pm

it gets weirder! traced the red/wht to the front of the bike and its not connected to anything nor has it been since ive had the bike.theres a pic of it on one of my early posts, it has a green plug on the end. Checked the wiring coming from the ignition switch and the only switched live is an orange wire? if i connect this and turn the ignition on/off the relay works, so i could wire this way. But the question is how the hell did it work before with no switched power to it????

Thu Jul 07, 2011 11:10 pm

Yep, the orange's are always 12v and blk/wi return. I think someone has been chopping the loom about and as you connect up correctly its not so happy. The red/wi has a green connection and is not part of a connector block (single). I dont get the rely as only 4 connections are used, but the VVC is weird in that it has cam sensors that tell the ignition if the cams are hi or low, plus TPS so get s a little complicated. Im sure that reley is part of this and is not on the non VVC. In the manuals section ther is a 97 VVC pdf that has a loom diagram, its a little bit different than the first gen VVC but very close, so may be worth a look.
At the end of the day if you got 12v at the coils it will run so if you rework anything check the coils first.

Chris.

How do you set the float height?

How do you set the float height?

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