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Bodge paint job?

Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 7:41 pm
by iArGod
Hi guys,

Story:

My NC30 when i bought it was unpainted, and took it to a local paint shop to get it sprayed.
First time round he happened to leave a lick of paint at the front of the tank, we took it back to him and requested he did the job again.
He said that he rubbed it back down and put 2 coats of Primer down before the orange paint.

Friday i took a 400km trip from Devon to Manchester, with 3 half hour stops on the way
( the temp gauge did not go past it 90c mark and it wasn't a considerably hot day )


Problem:

Image
Image

The paint looks like the paint thinned and dripped onto my frame and black fairings and dried like orange chalk that comes off with a wipe of the finger.

Has he used the wrong paint or something?
Or is this normal... :|



Thanks for your time


Keir

Re: Bodge paint job?

Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 7:45 pm
by Drunkn Munky
The panel and the tank rubbing against each other is causing that, fitted properly they shouldnt touch

Re: Bodge paint job?

Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 8:21 pm
by Dgeoff33
Get some tank rubbers or put some spacers behind the panels, it's not the paint job at fault.

Re: Bodge paint job?

Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 9:36 pm
by iArGod
I have Tyga panels so thats why their rubbing :|
Will have to look into getting spacing.
Wish i didnt have these 3 piece panels!!

How much does a full set of original fairings usually go for?
Are there companys that make accurate ones?


Thanks again guys

Re: Bodge paint job?

Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 9:40 pm
by Drunkn Munky
Nowt wrong with tyga panels, well the standard shape ones anyway ;)

Prices for Original panels can be expensive but its not likely to get any cheaper in the future

Re: Bodge paint job?

Posted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 2:45 am
by tygapaul
The hardness of glass is much more than paint unlike ABS plastic. In any battle where the two come into contact the glass will win every time. The best advise I can give (which we give on the website under technical help-fitting instructions) is trial fit all panels before painting and adjust to make sure there is correct clearance all round. The panels are hand made and there is a slight variation between one and another but nothing that a sheet of sand paper and a block can't fix.

The thing is that even if it test fits our bike perfectly, all these bikes are 20 years old now, including ours, and have mostly had a get off at some time (often the reason for fitting our fairings) or even just dismantled and rebuilt with slight changes in stay positions etc. This results in slight changes of angle with stays etc. and this might or might nott be an issue with the plastic ones but can be with ours. In the case of this seat cowling, the edge of seat panel is touching the tank in the photos like others have pointed out. This could be because the panel is in more than it should, but equally the aluminium tabs which are welded on the frame spars are often slightly bent inwards on bikes I have seen which can have the same effect. A sharp tap with a plastic mallet or block of wood and hammer will quickly fix that. A quick rub with the a sanding block (or sand paper over same block of wood) will quickly remove material from seat unit along this area if the seat is the culprit. In an extreme case put a washer between the seat cowling and the mounting tab on the frame. It can be glued into position if it is going to be hassle every time the seat is removed. There is always a solution. The trick is to catch any fitment issues early, and preferably before paint. OEM panels are going to be a perfect fit because they are not handmade but injection moulded. The disadvantage is they are difficult to repair and Honda don't make a single RVF style seat cowling for the NC30 but we do...