After my exhaust studs fell out over the weekend and I had to take the bike apart again! I thought nows a better time than any other to start listing down things I've done and things I'd like to do with my 30.
This is how it stood a couple of weekends ago;

So with the exhaust studs out I though I may as well give the whole system a bit of spit and polish. The spring loaded tyga system is a doddle to disassemble. BONUS!
I'm not really into polishing all that much but I was quite impressed with the outcome. A bit of autosol, a dirty rag, 20 minutes, and years of being single helped turn this;

To this;


When I got the bike last year in all of its standard beauty;


I'd thought the seat was on the low side and the shock was a bit soft so that was one of the first things to change along with the standard exhaust system. I couldn't pass on an RS250 shock that came up on here and fitted that immediately.

Not too bad for 30000km's of abuse.......

RS250 shock - Ohlins spring - Yum.


I'd never really held a spanner before owning this bike so the task of fitting the exhaust was a bit daunting. Especially the re-jetting that had to go along with it. But it's an easy job when you're armed with Cammo's world famous Carby guide (Cheers Cammo!)
After contacting Rick O, he recommended I go from my 115f 118r jets to 120 dynojets all round and his RO road needles with standard 0.5mm spacing under them - Spot on.

I can't find a lot of my photo's so I'll list the jobs I've done;
*RS250 shock
*Tyga system
*New ER9 plugs all round
*14t/40t sprockets
*Renthal chain
*Woodcraft clip ons
*Blade calipers (still need the correct m/c)
*Hel front lines
*BT090's
*Tyga rearsets
*Powder coated things I could easily take off - sidestand, screen brace, clock brackets, yokes, bar ends, clip ons, clutch perches, throttle housings etc.

Jobs to do;
*Powder coat wheels (White)
*Powder coat fork lowers (Standard silver/grey)
*Fit RO front end kit
*Freshen up engine externals (paint flaking off)
*Maybe route rear brake line through swing arm.
*New discs all round

^^^^This list is likely to forever grow.

Later folks!

top bombing, about time you got some up hade'

looks lovely,

cant wait to get my Seed paint done so my bike can rightfully rejoin the family once again, why someone bastardised her paint 2x is beyond me!

Cheers. Why would anyone want to spray over this scheme?!
You doing carbon on yours rick? I fancy a frame and swingarm cover. Might look good, might look OTT and a bit gash.

only carbon bit i have are the front fender, rear hugger, rear set heal guards and exhaust hanger, i think thats it for carbon, i do have the seat cover but thats just temporary for MOT.

i may get covers but not in the near future,

bike was born a seed then some twazzock decided metalic purple would be a good colour, then the owner/s afterwards decided to spray it pure silver and thats where its at right now, but i will take her back REAL soon.

as soon as i get my TYGA RC45 Seat and Silohuette nose cone :)

Hadies wrote:Cheers. Why would anyone want to spray over this scheme?!

I agree, definitely up there with the RWB as the best NC30 colour scheme and yours is a very nice example.

Some bad news today;

Snapped 2 studs out of 4 when I tried to screw off the nuts. I will replace them all just for good measure but is there a better known alternative to these as it seems to be a very common issue?
I also dropped some man points and was unable to undo the rear wheel nut - need a bigger breaker bar.
Planning to take the wheels off, go to quik fit, pop the tyres off, and spray them this weekend.
I also found the pistons in my blade calipers to be moving quite unevenly so I'll need to give them a clean. What lubricant can I use to help the pistons move more freely?

This came today though and cheered me up. Cheers Shaun!

red rubber grease for your brakes mate, pop the pistons all the way out, and clear the grot out from behind the seals, then reassmble with a smear of the rubber grease :)

ive always used m6 threaded rod, you can get stainless ones from screwfix for a few quid in like meter lengths and cut to the size you require, bit of a tedious job cutting 8 of them though.

I know it's different on a V4 but I now use bolts instead of studs and nuts.

tanuki wrote:I know it's different on a V4 but I now use bolts instead of studs and nuts.

ive never thought of doing that, ill go measure the depth of the m6 hole, all youll need to do in future to guage the size of the bolt is the depth + the collar thickness is the length the thread, any longer, and you risk stripping the thread or not getting enoughp pressure on the head/exhaust gaskets.

brb i shall go measure, the joys of working at home :D