well it started.
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well it started.
bike is running, albeit dogy, theres like a squealing noise as well, and it will suddenly stop, but will then start again if left alone, dont know what ive done, any suggestions?
mark
mark
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Re: well it started.
first things first before you run it again is identify why it is squealing.
where is it squealing from?
Has it had new rings? Did you torque the cams down correctly? Did you use too much sealant on the cases and block the oil pump strainer? Does the oil light go out?
What extent did you goto with the engine?
where is it squealing from?
Has it had new rings? Did you torque the cams down correctly? Did you use too much sealant on the cases and block the oil pump strainer? Does the oil light go out?
What extent did you goto with the engine?
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Re: well it started.
basically just renewed the casings as other was cracked and had bee repaired with steel putty.
and redone timing.
no the oil light didnt go out either, do i hve to redo it ?
and redone timing.
no the oil light didnt go out either, do i hve to redo it ?
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Re: well it started.
ok first question i have is when you changed the casings did you use the matching crank to go with the casings? Or did you have you crank ground to new bearings?
To me the squealing sound is going to be oil starvation to the bearings and the bearings running
To me the squealing sound is going to be oil starvation to the bearings and the bearings running
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Re: well it started.
no, i just swapped everything over, i assumed that it would just all go together.
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Re: well it started.
ok, i think i may have found the problem [hopefully]
referring back to this post viewtopic.php?f=53&t=26332 someone kindly identified most of the pieces, apart from the little alloy pin, well today after stripping off bits, i took off the cog for the oil pump? on rhs and on the spindle is a hole, and on the cog is a cutout both of which fits perfectly
so.. without this being fitted i assume that the cog would just spin freely and not turn the pump..hence oil starvation.
hopefully problem solved there, but there is still a bit of tightness when i rotate crank, but only on 1 section, should i still split case again and inspect it ?
regards mark
referring back to this post viewtopic.php?f=53&t=26332 someone kindly identified most of the pieces, apart from the little alloy pin, well today after stripping off bits, i took off the cog for the oil pump? on rhs and on the spindle is a hole, and on the cog is a cutout both of which fits perfectly

so.. without this being fitted i assume that the cog would just spin freely and not turn the pump..hence oil starvation.
hopefully problem solved there, but there is still a bit of tightness when i rotate crank, but only on 1 section, should i still split case again and inspect it ?
regards mark
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Re: well it started.
most definately split the casings again. no oil pump means all the bearings had no oil. sorry to be the bearer of bad news
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Re: well it started.
Bad shite! if the mains had no oil then thers a good chance the bearings will have picked up, the coating is very thin. I said one of the pins held the oil pump gear, but if your not up to speed on the motor its very easy to miss a small part. I would have plastigauged the clearances but with no oil it would have been work down the drain.
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Re: well it started.
my apologies stripes, didnt read properly.
what am i looking for in inspecting the crank ect to see if bearings are gone please
mark
what am i looking for in inspecting the crank ect to see if bearings are gone please
mark
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Re: well it started.
the bearing journals will certainly have run marks in and the bearings will be the same.
i would suggest taking the crank to a machine shop that does crank regrinds and get them to check the crank unless you have micrometers etc.
give michelle at robinsons foundry a call and find out what undersize bearings are available and then get the crank reground to the closest you can get away with so it can be done again in future.
if you need more info you can pm me and i can give you my number.
i said in a post recently that you can't just swap casings unless you know how to read the colour codes but i don't know if you would have seen it. these engines are a bit funny with certain things unless you really know them.
i would suggest taking the crank to a machine shop that does crank regrinds and get them to check the crank unless you have micrometers etc.
give michelle at robinsons foundry a call and find out what undersize bearings are available and then get the crank reground to the closest you can get away with so it can be done again in future.
if you need more info you can pm me and i can give you my number.
i said in a post recently that you can't just swap casings unless you know how to read the colour codes but i don't know if you would have seen it. these engines are a bit funny with certain things unless you really know them.
