Proven mods for a 3TJ

[FZR400]

Im gently bringing my 3TJ up to date by replacing and upgrading various parts and I was just wondering if there was any tried and tested modifications that can be done to it to improve the general performance and feel of it?

Ive already changed the rear shock for a 2007 R6 one, replaced the fork oil, all wheel bearings and headstock bearings (What a difference!) along with a new chain and sprocket.

Its not so much a case of anything needing to be done, I just like messing around with it, much more fun than going to uni lectures!

So any ideas?

[Hogdigerdy Dog]

i replaced the fork springs and spacers for some Maxton jobbies in mine and what a difference.
their well worth the money, spring weight's and spacers vary depending on your weight and riding style unlike the progressive spring on offer which are bike not rider orientated.
you also have to bear in mind that whatever maxton recommend will be race orientated and not necessarily the best for the road, the tj doesn't have adjustable forks so the only way to soften the pre-load is to shorten the spacers,
iv'e cut mine down from 216mm (recommended by maxton) to 214mm and it's just about right (2mm makes a big difference)
iv'e also got the R6 shock in the back end (adjustable) and it all seem to work just right,
i think if i only rode 1up, i'd probably have another mm or so off the spacers, but i ride with the wife on the back a fare bit of the time so i put up with it a bit hard on the front when i'm out on my own

[Evilchicken0]

Brakes are next.
Fit up braided steel lines the stainless fittings are a good idea but don't use alloy they'll corrode in the winter. I use EBC HH pads and replaced the master cylinder with a Brembo 19x20 radial. In practice I should have had a 19x18 for a better feel, look for a master with a microswitch for the brake light I have a hydraulic one which doesn't always come on when I brake lightly. I had to pack out the throttle bar end and angle the lever down (which is more comfortable anyway) to get it not touch the clocks (it just touches).
Fit Perelli Supercorsas.

There's a mod to build a GSX500 fuel tap into the 3TJ's so you don't break the plastic bit - but I haven't done that yet.

Change the can if you want to, the standard one is heavy.

I have a pillion seat with more padding so help Mrs EC0 a bit

Double bubble screen, because I use a tank bag, from Skidmarx.

[Kayla850]

I've done a bit to mine-

Thunderace front end- it bolts straight in but you need everything to make it work right. I'm going to have a go fitting a 3TJ wheel into the Thunderace forks soon but don't hold your breath I had to modify the screen brace to clear the fork tops but I'm going to weld some arms onto the standard lower fairing bracket and remove the screen brace all together, that way you'll be able to lift the tank without it clonking on the screen brace.

TRX850 rear end- it's pretty straightforward, you need to narrow the swingarm and pivot sleeve to fit it in the 3TJ frame but it all goes in ok. I did this while I'm working on fitting a 4JH wheel into the 3TJ swingarm. Once that's done I'll probably put the 3TJ arm back in the bike with the 5 x 17" 4jh wheel. There's no real reason other than I sold the 3TJ rear wheel to offset the cost of the 600 conversion to my bike and I have 4 4JH wheels to use. It still handles really well.

R6 shock- it works and looks quite nice too

FZR600R engine- easier than I feared! The fuelling was the issue but I've used the 3TJ airbox with the rubbers removed and the holes enlarged to fit straight over the 600R carbs and intake trumpets (I refuse to call them 'velocity stacks' )

Lighter weight fibreglass bodywork and a single offset headlight- just because it's lighter than the standard stuff and I never carry pillions.

Now the bike's built and rideable I'm going to go through it and replace all the steel bits that can be safely replace with ally parts, just stuff like wheel spacers and brackets. I was thinking of having a go at a carbon/ally subframe if I get the time.

[Hogdigerdy Dog]

as evil says brakes are up there with the suspension upgrades, whichever you choose there's no point going faster round corners if you cant stop the thing, standard tj brakes are not brilliant, the calipers are excellent if maintained properly and it's probable cheaper to re-built the calipers with some new seals and braided lines and then fit ebc hh pads than it is to change the standard setup, i haven't done the master yet and not sure i will as i'm happy with what iv'e got, but you never know once you start fiddling it's difficult to know were to stop

rubber is very important and i went with the dunlop 208 spotsmax only cos the rear was new (with nipples ) when i got the bike, so i stuck the same on the front, i have read that because the 400 is fairly light and the 208s are made for bigger heaver sports bikes that they take a while to warm up, but iv'e never had a problem and recon their really good it's a case of take a bit of advice, then go suck it and see.

or if you've got parts, funds and access to some machine tools you could go down the kayla route and give it the full monty, i watched kayla's build with interest and it really is an exercise in what can be done with the right stuff, but not for everyone, although having said that if the right bit's come along at the right price then who knows

as i said i'm well chuffed with what iv'e got now and having spent most of last year fettling away at it i think this year i'm gonna put some miles on it and enjoy

[Kayla850]

or if you've got parts, funds and access to some machine tools you could go down the kayla route and give it the full monty, i watched kayla's build with interest and it really is an exercise in what can be done with the right stuff, but not for everyone, although having said that if the right bit's come along at the right price then who knows

as i said i'm well chuffed with what iv'e got now and having spent most of last year fettling away at it i think this year i'm gonna put some miles on it and enjoy

I think I'd have left my 3TJ standard (barring the shock) if we hadn't had the other parts kicking around and the 4JH hadn't cropped up at the right time and price. There's not a great deal wrong with any of the FZR400s (except the stupid bloody 18" rear wheel on the earlier ones!) I'm looking forward to enjoying mine this summer too

[FZR400]

Thanks for all the info!

Ive got a set of HEL braided lines on order and was looking at some radial master cylinders but they seem shockingly expensive! Is there a modern bike that runs a decent master cylinder as standard that could be cheaper?

Ive got a mis-matched pair of tyres, one Bridgestone BT-020 on the front which must of been on there for the past 10 years and one random Avon Supersport. As soon as i get some more funds I rekon this is the best place to start then.

Only having access to a pretty small garage and equipment I think I'm going to leave the more hardcore mods for a while!

I would love to take the carbs to pieces and give them a good cleaning as I cant imagine they've ever been done but I assume they would then need to be synchronised afterwards? Is this an easy job?

[Evilchicken0]

You can clean the carbs - if the bike runs now then they'll be ok inside but it doesn't hurt to show them some carb cleaner.

Take the airbox and carbs off then disconect the 2 throttle cables, undo the choke at the lever and take the whole lot off the bike.
stuff some old, but clean rag into the intakes.

Use a big bit of white paper (wrapping paper) and work on 1 carb at a time. Use a propper fitting screw attachment in a 1/4" ratchet push down hard on the screw while undoing it. It might be better to just replace these screws with stainless allen headed bolts I think they're M5 but can't remember the length get them off e-bay. Take off the float bowl on the bottom and take a picture of whats there, the floats pull off but be carefull with the little valve, clean it all with carb cleaner.
Go to the top of the carb and undo those screws the top has a soft spring under it so it might want to boing about. Again take a picture now gently free off the diapham and lift that away with the slide and needle. Unscrew the two jets and again clean it all up with carb cleaner. Don't poke anything through the jets. Then put the jets back in (make sure them in the right holes ) drop the side in and seat the diaphram, put the floats back with the valve. slap the covers on and do the next ....

When you put the carbs back on the bike do the throttle cables up first then put the carbs on (it takes a bit of pushing). Make sure the airbox is seated on all the carbs.

[Hogdigerdy Dog]

the tiniest smear of grease on the carbs were they push into the manifold boots makes them pop on and off with ease, found this little trick last year after having to fight the carbs on about 10 times, works a treat

[Pants]

send it to BDK and get them to open up the oil ways to stop the crank getting starved of oil at high revs (only really an issue if you track the thing, and then it is an issue....). Other than that and its a decent brake m/c like EC says, a new rear shock and recondition the front suspension. There really isn't much wrong with these bikes that a good spring maintenance and new rubber can't put right.