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painting tips

Posted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 5:57 pm
by chownsy
Right, got to the point where im painting, I did it once before but hadnt sanded it well enough so redoing it again,

I have the spray gun, booth, protection and what not sorted

All sanded with 2000grit W+D

SO i will dampen the floor to keep dust down

So i will mix 1:1 paint and thinners.

Spray it on in an even smooth fashion (stand it on a box so can do the edges and all with no hassle)

Then leave that panel to dry while i spray the others.

When there all dry, spray the pearl coat on and let them dry.


Do i then Spray the laquear on straight away, do i polish the paint and then laquear, do i let the paint and pearl dry fully and then laquear.

I know once laqueared i sand with 2000grit and then polish with G3 and then wax and buff off for a good shine

Re: painting tips

Posted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 7:20 pm
by porndoguk
lacquer is a funny fucker, i always make sure my paint is 2 days dry before i lacquer, i 2000 W&D the top surface of paint, clean, dry, warm up then lacquer, only do a thin coat, because its so easy to screw up with lacquer, spray from a far distance, and make sure your area is clear of other items in the spray radius,

when dry do a W&D again, then another thing coat, i tend to do 3 layers 2 thin, and one thicker final, make sure you leave it a few days before you mop and polish, like 3 days at house room temprature, airing cupboards are even better.

ps another top tip is your using rattle cans or tined is to submerse them in warm water for 10mins,

so the paint/lacquer becomes thinner and wont splurt out, thats the worst thing that can happen.

Re: painting tips

Posted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 7:23 pm
by chownsy
rickyb_dj wrote:lacquer is a funny fucker, i always make sure my paint is 2 days dry before i lacquer, i 2000 W&D the top surface of paint, clean, dry, warm up then lacquer, only do a thin coat, because its so easy to screw up with lacquer, spray from a far distance, and make sure your area is clear of other items in the spray radius,

when dry do a W&D again, then another thing coat, i tend to do 3 layers 2 thin, and one thicker final, make sure you leave it a few days before you mop and polish, like 3 days at house room temprature, airing cupboards are even better.

ps another top tip is your using rattle cans or tined is to submerse them in warm water for 10mins,

so the paint/lacquer becomes thinner and wont splurt out, thats the worst thing that can happen.
im using a compressor and spray gun for this job, 2K laquear is what im using for the laquear.

the paint was supplied by a local automotive paint shop (jawel paints)

Re: painting tips

Posted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 8:00 pm
by porndoguk
chownsy wrote:
rickyb_dj wrote:lacquer is a funny fucker, i always make sure my paint is 2 days dry before i lacquer, i 2000 W&D the top surface of paint, clean, dry, warm up then lacquer, only do a thin coat, because its so easy to screw up with lacquer, spray from a far distance, and make sure your area is clear of other items in the spray radius,

when dry do a W&D again, then another thing coat, i tend to do 3 layers 2 thin, and one thicker final, make sure you leave it a few days before you mop and polish, like 3 days at house room temprature, airing cupboards are even better.

ps another top tip is your using rattle cans or tined is to submerse them in warm water for 10mins,

so the paint/lacquer becomes thinner and wont splurt out, thats the worst thing that can happen.
im using a compressor and spray gun for this job, 2K laquear is what im using for the laquear.

the paint was supplied by a local automotive paint shop (jawel paints)
jawel are pretty good, best people to ask are the suppliers, dont be affriad to ask them.

Re: painting tips

Posted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 9:40 pm
by Variablevalves suck
If you are applying pear you cannot wet back as it will shag the pear so as soon as touch dry spay on the clear.
Its best to go just as its taking, it will be better than super dry..

Re: painting tips

Posted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 10:22 pm
by chownsy
Variablevalves suck wrote:If you are applying pear you cannot wet back as it will shag the pear so as soon as touch dry spay on the clear.
Its best to go just as its taking, it will be better than super dry..

ah thanks for that :)

I will have to paint them as fast as i can :)

Re: painting tips

Posted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 10:33 pm
by Variablevalves suck
No probs and no rush!
Can i ask why the pear?

Re: painting tips

Posted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 10:37 pm
by chownsy
Variablevalves suck wrote:No probs and no rush!
Can i ask why the pearl?

Im painting the bike in Ford Focus RS orange which is a pearlescent paint

Re: painting tips

Posted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 10:51 pm
by Variablevalves suck
I see!
Nice colour. Im in the process of painting my bike- white with a white/silver micro peal so looks white but will catch the sunlight. Sweet as!! :peace:

Re: painting tips

Posted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 11:43 pm
by theoutsider
Right,if you want to make your job easier with the laquer go wet on wet,so paint the fairings(basecoat and after that the pearl coat)wait for about 10 minutes and go for the clearcoat,laquer runs can be polished out but if you don`t spray the laquer right you may have dry spots and it will buff out quite hard,pressure on the gun it should be about 15-20,warm up the room ,do not leave the paint to dry,I`ve painted st orange.do not rush ,take your time,if you can piss you can paint ;)