I now have my bike running after the negative battery cable snapping but whilst the bike was in bits in the garage i decided to have a nose about. Im acquiring a quite list of thing that will require replacing to get the bike up to a standard im happy with......
True to his word the seller had serviced the bike not so long ago the oil was lovely, both airfilters brand new, spark plugs barely coloured and coolant was kawasaki green. However the bike is running completely stock jetting yet it has a open pipe on. The bike doesnt feel too bad but it is a bit fluffy below 6k and doesnt have as much stomp as my old NC30 up top (that could just be the diff between the '30 and '35 though). Are there any things that are recommended to do the the NC35 as i know i drilled the slides, adjusted the pilot and changed the jets on my old NC30.

Also the bike has been stored for the past 4 years and is very furry is the anything that i can do to de-fur my engine as it is speckled white, ive had a go at it with a soft brass brush but i cant get into the nooks and crannys.

How much damage can a decent fairing repairer do and how strong are the repairs once repaired as the the standard body work is way past its best. its functional but not pretty. By next year i want to have got it to a nice tidy state of repair.

Other than a heap of cosmetic woes the bike is solid and handles reall nice. Im quite happy really
Regards
Tam

You can try fitting a .5 washer to each needle to raise and richen it a bit which may get rid of that flat spot. If the bikes been stood for that long, maybe clean the carbs out thoroughly before changing fuelling.

Its not recommended to drill the slides on an rvf i see.

Compressed air will clean the engine off, and fiberglass chop strand is very strong for repairing fairing cracks

I just repaired my NC35 body work - mostly busted, missing and cracked mounting tabs in parts of all panels. I used plastex, also called plastifix. Search for the recent thread. there are other ideas in it and a couple links to examples. Really worked great and now it is very solidly mounted.

bill

tam wrote: The bike doesnt feel too bad but it is a bit fluffy below 6k and doesnt have as much stomp as my old NC30 up top (that could just be the diff between the '30 and '35 though). Are there any things that are recommended to do the the NC35 as i know i drilled the slides, adjusted the pilot and changed the jets on my old NC30.

Take a look at the carbs settings. It's easiest to do this with the carbs off the bike. Check that the pilot screw settings are correct (1 & 5/8 turns out from fully in) and perhaps look at jetting it to suit your end can. 112 main jets all round should suit it. A carb balance will also help any small throttle fluffiness.

Cheers for the replies.
i had the carbs off and checked the pilots and mains the pilots were set correctly and its on the standard 110's all round. Ive noted that the slides are fine on the '35 so i have left them be. The carbs could do with a clean they are not dirty as such but they are not gleeming either.

It really burbles on the overun, like really burbles, them most i have ever heard. Im i right in the belief that this is a sign of a lean mixture? if i put bigger jets in do i need to lift the needles as mentioned in an earlier post?

I shall have a go with some of the plastic repair stuff (ill get the name right when i re read this post as if forgotton! ) but ill probably wait until my Husband is back from his govenment sponsored holiday to the middle east. He is good at things like that and can do composite repairs on helicopters so im sure he will be able to fix my fairings............
Hopefully i shall get is running lovely before he gets back and then get it looking lovely when he is home

regards
Tam

You probably wont want to raise the needles & put in bigger jets, one or the other. Just raising the needles may affect fuelling at different rpms compared with bigger jets.

tam wrote:burbles on the overun, like really burbles, them most i have ever heard. Im i right in the belief that this is a sign of a lean mixture? if i put bigger jets in do i need to lift the needles as mentioned in an earlier post?

Sometimes it's just the design of the can...