Clutch not dis-engaging?
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Clutch not dis-engaging?
While I had the fairing off I adjusted my clutch cable as sometimes it feels like it isn't working. I have adjusted the handle bar settings and the clutch nut to get the bite point in the right place. Every time I put the bike in gear (from neutral) it feels like 1st gear is engaging (bike rocks forward), even with the clutch pulled in fully. When I bump started the bike in 2nd, even with the clutch lever pulled in it would pull me along, I would have to jump on and knock it into neutral to stop it. Is this a sign something is up with the clutch (wear etc) or do I need to finely balance the bite point to clear it? I can't seem to stop it by fiddling with the cable.
ignore this, I did a quick search after posting (instead of BEFORE) and found this is a 'feature' of Honda's.
ignore this, I did a quick search after posting (instead of BEFORE) and found this is a 'feature' of Honda's.
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Re: Clutch not dis-engaging?
Not sure if that amount of clutch drag is normal... Every bike will lurch slightly with 1st engaged, but as for accelerating from standstill or slow roll with clutch disengaged that shouldnt happen. By 'clutch nut' you mean the cable tension adjuster by the pushrod? not the actual clutch nut which must be torqued to a specific value. The tighter you adjust the clutch cable, the more openly the clutch is operated with the lever pulled, so if the clutch lever is firm then clutch should disengage sufficiently.
If the plain or friction plates are warped it will cause the clutch to drag, so will old sludgy oil, and a loose clutch nut can also cause it. Maybe open right side crankcase and have a look?
If the plain or friction plates are warped it will cause the clutch to drag, so will old sludgy oil, and a loose clutch nut can also cause it. Maybe open right side crankcase and have a look?
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Re: Clutch not dis-engaging?
Might be worth cleaning and relubing the pushrod for the clutch - you should be able to click into first and it not drag you along!
If you had to adjust it that much so the lever travel is OK then maybe your clutch is on the way out.
If you had to adjust it that much so the lever travel is OK then maybe your clutch is on the way out.
IMPERATOR REX ANGLORUM
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
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Re: Clutch not dis-engaging?
cable tension adjuster = yes, that is the correct nameMexicanGringo wrote:Not sure if that amount of clutch drag is normal... Every bike will lurch slightly with 1st engaged, but as for accelerating from standstill or slow roll with clutch disengaged that shouldnt happen. By 'clutch nut' you mean the cable tension adjuster by the pushrod? not the actual clutch nut which must be torqued to a specific value. The tighter you adjust the clutch cable, the more openly the clutch is operated with the lever pulled, so if the clutch lever is firm then clutch should disengage sufficiently.
If the plain or friction plates are warped it will cause the clutch to drag, so will old sludgy oil, and a loose clutch nut can also cause it. Maybe open right side crankcase and have a look?
old sludgy oil = had an oil change about 6 months ago, just topped up and the oil looks ok.
right side crankcase = can I get into this with just the fairings off? I looked in the haynes manual, fiddling with the clutch is a 4 spanner job.
I have just re-jetted the carbs and set the pilot screws which was a 3 spanner job. I think the clutch might be a bit beyond the driveway workshop I have available.
I have set the clutch lever up to an acceptable bite point and the symptoms aren't as pronounced as before but I would rather get a second opinion from someone with experience.
Is there anyone in the Reading/Berkshire area who wants a test ride?
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Re: Clutch not dis-engaging?
Clutch meddling just need a clutch holding tool and a big socket for the centre, depends how much your taking it apart. If your only messing with the plates you probably wont even need those specialist items.
You will need a new clutch cover gasket if you remove the cover.
You will need a new clutch cover gasket if you remove the cover.
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Re: Clutch not dis-engaging?
The right side crankcase comes off easily with about 9 or so bolts, might have to drain oil first.. If you want to check condition of plain&friction plates, which you should, you sandwich a cloth in the basket gearing and undo the clutch nut with a long bar for leverage. Youl need to sacrifice a socket to make into a castle nut type remover. Really not a difficult job, follow the haynes procedure if youv got it. And you can use silicone gasket maker when putting the crankcase cover back on in place of a proper gasket,just need to scrape all remnants of the old gasket off.
Id take it for a test ride with pleasure, but couple thousand kms away, and even if i wanted to pay the airfare i couldnt get there now...
Id take it for a test ride with pleasure, but couple thousand kms away, and even if i wanted to pay the airfare i couldnt get there now...
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Re: Clutch not dis-engaging?
have to agree with mexicangringo, removing the clutch is not as big or daunting task as you may think, once you have the case off you can see all whats going on inside and it is not that scary!
just take your time, the satisfaction you will get after learning and doing it yourself is great. i know this as i only did it 2 weeks ago!
just take your time, the satisfaction you will get after learning and doing it yourself is great. i know this as i only did it 2 weeks ago!