Hi I have a completely standard NC35 and the only way it will start and continue to run is with no choke and small amounts of throttle, just enough to keep it running until it settles to an idle (normally 10 secs of minor revving <3k rpm). Once it will idle it performs great with no holes in the power and never spluttering or running rough in any way.

However after reading various sources it feels like i am supposed to be using the choke and no throttle until the motor has settled. But when using full choke from cold the bike will fire up, rev to about 3k then die,it feels as if its flooding and will continue to do this until i get fed up and just use the throttle.

When warm, if i place full choke on it will generally just die after revving up a bit rather than raise the idle speed and stay there.

the bike, no matter what temp will not sit on full choke without dieing.

Firstly am i doing any harm starting the bike using the throttle?

Now for the remedy, what part of the carbs should i be looking at?

I guess i will do a complete clean of the carbs as the bike is almost at 58000km so will probably need a clean, if not, overhaul. The bike itself is very tidy both mechanically and aethetically so looks as if the japanese owners gave it a bit of attentin at least. Apart from this peculiarity it Runs absolutly beautifully and when i have taken bits off just for a look, it didnt look like the carbs had been opened before with no telltale marks on the tabs that cover the screws that have to be bent to get inside them..

If it's not broken DONT fix it.

You may well cause problems removing the carbs for such a trivial matter. You bike seems to run good so I would leave well alone.

Couple of things.

- When warm a bike won't run on the choke, you'll kill it.

- You don't need to start on the choke all the while, only if it's cold, if you've been running the bike recently you shouldn't use the chooke either.

- Starting without choke wont' cause problems if the bikes starting.

- Thoe tabs are the air-tray, you DONT need to un-do them to get the carbs off, they come off as a complete unit from the V part of the engine with air-tray attatched.

You may find your pilots are slightly richer than stock which means you won't need so much choke, i'd leave it alone personally, especially as its runnign well

My XBR never needed choke ever and ran fantastic.

Neosophist wrote:If it's not broken DONT fix it.

That was my thoughts too, however i will be buying a new bolt on tyga/scorpion can so will be opening her up then for a re-jet anyway.

And yeah now i think about it, those tabs dont need to be touched do they...

Thanks, Harvey

Harvd wrote: it didnt look like the carbs had been opened before with no telltale marks on the tabs that cover the screws that have to be bent to get inside them..

Do you mean the brass L shaped tabs that sit over the carb top plate screws?

If so you don't need to remove the top plate to access the carb internals. It can be a pain putting it back on if you do decide to remove the top plate!