Hi all,
Can anyone tell me some of the simplist ways i can get more out of my RVF 400?

I have done a few races this year with NG and now the seasons finished am looking to get a bit more out of my bike for next year. I should have the suspension sorted in a couple of weeks (waiting for payday) so should make a bit of a difference, but other than that its a standard bike.

I have limited funds and basic bike knowledge of my bike, can anyone help?
cheers Nick.

I'm in exactly the same boat! Heres what I've done so far and hopefully someone who know what their doing can add to it.

-Stripped the electrics basically anything thats not needed lights, horn etc.
-Removed the fan, ignition( have a switch now instead), coolant res.
-Chopped as much metal off the sub frame as was possible.
-Changed bike to race shift.
-Cut away front sproket casing.
-changed it to total loss using thread off here.
- Checked valves clearances, cleaned and balanced carbs( using info off here) best thing to do by far! Bike now runs a million times better.
Thats all the free stuff anyway. Then its all money.

A valve regrind / ring replacement will get the cylinders sealing optimally again if the bikes done 20k+ .. The valve seats tend to pit over time and the seal worsens slightly, its prob worth a few hp & its not a huge job and youl have a like new engine after.. Also check the ramair ducts are sealed as they tend to come loose on rvfs.. Bigger airbox with bigger jets, aftermarket cdi, people on here have done all the mods

MexicanGringo wrote:A valve regrind / ring replacement will get the cylinders sealing optimally again if the bikes done 20k+ .. The valve seats tend to pit over time and the seal worsens slightly, its prob worth a few hp & its not a huge job and youl have a like new engine after.. Also check the ramair ducts are sealed as they tend to come loose on rvfs.. Bigger airbox with bigger jets, aftermarket cdi, people on here have done all the mods

That's a bit overkill with the motor and the ram-air ducts are display purposes only, they don't direct air to the bike.

Fueling is integral, but I'd recommend spending the money on suspension first.

viper_biker wrote:That's a bit overkill with the motor and the ram-air ducts are display purposes only, they don't direct air to the bike.

Fueling is integral, but I'd recommend spending the money on suspension first.

AOL, our 57k NC35 was giving 57.56BHP at the rear wheel with no work that I know of.


Just make sure the valve clearances are spot on as it makes a huge difference.

As for the air-ducts they're not totally pointless but all they do at most is duct a bit of cooler air into the vicinity of the airbox intake.

Druid

Couple of HRC stickers will see +10bhp

Lose a few pounds

Drunkn Munky wrote:Couple of HRC stickers will see +10bhp

So if I get 4 does that make it +20bhp

Druid

dar5150 wrote:I'm in exactly the same boat! Heres what I've done so far and hopefully someone who know what their doing can add to it.

...
-Removed the fan, ignition( have a switch now instead), coolant res.
....
Thats all the free stuff anyway. Then its all money.

hi,
did you add simple switch or you use stop switch?

also- remove coolant res- how it comes??

fastdruid wrote:

Drunkn Munky wrote:Couple of HRC stickers will see +10bhp

So if I get 4 does that make it +20bhp

Druid

Now thats just being silly