'89 VFR NC30 - Wont start.
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- Settled in member
- Posts: 102
- Joined: Sun Apr 25, 2010 9:15 pm
- Bike owned: Cagiva Mito. VFR400R NC30
- Location: Worcester
Re: '89 VFR NC30 - Wont start.
hello all,
Manged to get round to taking the head off> this was easier said than done as someone had welded the rear outlets on :doh
But once off it was clear what the problem was

:D
Manged to get round to taking the head off> this was easier said than done as someone had welded the rear outlets on :doh
But once off it was clear what the problem was

:D
-
- Settled in member
- Posts: 102
- Joined: Sun Apr 25, 2010 9:15 pm
- Bike owned: Cagiva Mito. VFR400R NC30
- Location: Worcester
Re: '89 VFR NC30 - Wont start.
took a couple of pics of the piston top and the valves could one of you please cast your eyes over them and tell me if there ok. I'm guessing all the black stuff is carbon build up???


Thank you to every one who has help so far, hopefully it won't be long now till shes up and running :)
Cheers
Russ


Thank you to every one who has help so far, hopefully it won't be long now till shes up and running :)
Cheers
Russ
- skinnydog0_0
- NWAA Supporter
- Posts: 1213
- Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2010 9:07 pm
- Bike owned: Penny Farthing
- Location: Pembrokeshire West Wales
Re: '89 VFR NC30 - Wont start.
Hi, glad you managed to find what the problem was
The pistons and valves look okay, no different to the ones in my engine. If you want to clean them rub a little fresh engine oil on to the top of the piston and the valve heads and leave it for an hour, then rub off with a non metalic scourer from your mums/wifes sink. They always seem to find this really great, that they are helping with the engine re-build
Also use genuine honda head gaskets, as the after market ones can sometimes fail to seal properly, and you dont want the hassle of having to get the heads off again, for the sake of a few quid.

The pistons and valves look okay, no different to the ones in my engine. If you want to clean them rub a little fresh engine oil on to the top of the piston and the valve heads and leave it for an hour, then rub off with a non metalic scourer from your mums/wifes sink. They always seem to find this really great, that they are helping with the engine re-build

Also use genuine honda head gaskets, as the after market ones can sometimes fail to seal properly, and you dont want the hassle of having to get the heads off again, for the sake of a few quid.
-
- Settled in member
- Posts: 102
- Joined: Sun Apr 25, 2010 9:15 pm
- Bike owned: Cagiva Mito. VFR400R NC30
- Location: Worcester
Re: '89 VFR NC30 - Wont start.
Cheers man. I'll get some oil on 'em and leave them be for a bit, need to go out and get some more oil anyway. Got a new head gasket from David sivers so once the pistons and valve are clean she be going stright back together and dare i say it, maybe running again by the time the day's out. Fingers crosed
:D
Cheers
Russ
:D
Cheers
Russ
- skinnydog0_0
- NWAA Supporter
- Posts: 1213
- Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2010 9:07 pm
- Bike owned: Penny Farthing
- Location: Pembrokeshire West Wales
Re: '89 VFR NC30 - Wont start.
Remeber, check twice, make sure everything is going back as it should, then when you are sure check again. Very easy to rush and make a mistake or forget something
(he says from experience)

- Cammo
- Site Supporter
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- Bike owned: NC30
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
Re: '89 VFR NC30 - Wont start.
Is that some damage to the left side intake valve cutout on the top of your piston in the right of your pic?Rustyp81 wrote:took a couple of pics of the piston top and the valves could one of you please cast your eyes over them and tell me if there ok.
Hard to tell in the photo.
"It's just a ride" Bill Hicks
- skinnydog0_0
- NWAA Supporter
- Posts: 1213
- Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2010 9:07 pm
- Bike owned: Penny Farthing
- Location: Pembrokeshire West Wales
Re: '89 VFR NC30 - Wont start.
Well spotted Cammo,Cammo wrote:Is that some damage to the left side intake valve cutout on the top of your piston in the right of your pic?Rustyp81 wrote:took a couple of pics of the piston top and the valves could one of you please cast your eyes over them and tell me if there ok.
Hard to tell in the photo.
Rusty can you take some more close up pics of the tops of the pistons?
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- Settled in member
- Posts: 102
- Joined: Sun Apr 25, 2010 9:15 pm
- Bike owned: Cagiva Mito. VFR400R NC30
- Location: Worcester
Re: '89 VFR NC30 - Wont start.
could have told me before i put her back togetherskinnydog0_0 wrote:Well spotted Cammo,Cammo wrote:Is that some damage to the left side intake valve cutout on the top of your piston in the right of your pic?Rustyp81 wrote:took a couple of pics of the piston top and the valves could one of you please cast your eyes over them and tell me if there ok.
Hard to tell in the photo.
Rusty can you take some more close up pics of the tops of the pistons?

Only joking she's still in a million pieces. I'll get back out there and get some better pics.
Thank you both for your help
cheers
Russ
- Cammo
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Re: '89 VFR NC30 - Wont start.
LOL!
I hope that I don't have to undertake this task someday (and kudos to you for getting in and doing it!), but if you can't spot that defect in the top of the piston (if it is) then I wonder whether you have the capacity to undertake the task of refreshing the engine?!
I really don't intend this as an insult (the opposite: hats off to you for having the nouse to get stuck in!), but engines are very sophisticated pieces if machinery with exacting tolerances, anything out of the ordinary like this should ring alarm bells instantly.
The work these parts have to do shouldn't be underestimated. Parts that are out of tolerance should be binned, it aint no pit bike you're building, your life will depend on it holding together one day.

I hope that I don't have to undertake this task someday (and kudos to you for getting in and doing it!), but if you can't spot that defect in the top of the piston (if it is) then I wonder whether you have the capacity to undertake the task of refreshing the engine?!
I really don't intend this as an insult (the opposite: hats off to you for having the nouse to get stuck in!), but engines are very sophisticated pieces if machinery with exacting tolerances, anything out of the ordinary like this should ring alarm bells instantly.
The work these parts have to do shouldn't be underestimated. Parts that are out of tolerance should be binned, it aint no pit bike you're building, your life will depend on it holding together one day.
"It's just a ride" Bill Hicks
-
- Settled in member
- Posts: 102
- Joined: Sun Apr 25, 2010 9:15 pm
- Bike owned: Cagiva Mito. VFR400R NC30
- Location: Worcester
Re: '89 VFR NC30 - Wont start.
hey,
Thank's for the reply. I'm myself starting to think that i'm in above my head but i am also fairly methidc. I don't under estimate any thing about this bike, especially the enginge internals. I thought the pistons looked ok but just wanted to make sure by asking on here. ALl the bolts that have been taken off have all been cleaned and then stored in seprate marked container depending on where they came of the bike and where possible have been screw back into the engine to minimise the risk of "left over" bolts, even more.
When everything goes back on it will be checked, double checked and then probably checked again. Every thing will be re-torqued properly as per the haynes. Unfortunatly i have no choice but to have ago my self. i would love nothing more than to be able to pay someone to take it away and bring it back all shinny lol :D
The only thing that is worrying me a lot is putting the cames back on corectly. I've read the haynes over and over and spent all of last night tralling the internet for a more detailed guide with more pictures. :S
I think the bit that looked like it was damaged was infact a droplet of water as i've been out and cleaned them up a bit (more work still to be done) and they look like this

They both look the same, both have a small pimpe in the center of the piston but it's in excatly the same place on both pistons, so i'm guessing the is a casting mark rather than any sort of damage.
Anyhooo, thanks again for you help it's very much aprecheated!!
Cheers
Russ

Thank's for the reply. I'm myself starting to think that i'm in above my head but i am also fairly methidc. I don't under estimate any thing about this bike, especially the enginge internals. I thought the pistons looked ok but just wanted to make sure by asking on here. ALl the bolts that have been taken off have all been cleaned and then stored in seprate marked container depending on where they came of the bike and where possible have been screw back into the engine to minimise the risk of "left over" bolts, even more.
When everything goes back on it will be checked, double checked and then probably checked again. Every thing will be re-torqued properly as per the haynes. Unfortunatly i have no choice but to have ago my self. i would love nothing more than to be able to pay someone to take it away and bring it back all shinny lol :D
The only thing that is worrying me a lot is putting the cames back on corectly. I've read the haynes over and over and spent all of last night tralling the internet for a more detailed guide with more pictures. :S
I think the bit that looked like it was damaged was infact a droplet of water as i've been out and cleaned them up a bit (more work still to be done) and they look like this


They both look the same, both have a small pimpe in the center of the piston but it's in excatly the same place on both pistons, so i'm guessing the is a casting mark rather than any sort of damage.
Anyhooo, thanks again for you help it's very much aprecheated!!

Cheers
Russ
