Seems I´ve been missing another good one .
Very impressive work mathatch.
I once saw a 30 with dry clutch on a trip to the Alps, at a Honda dealer in a town on southern France, looong time ago. Thought about it several times over the past years, but never thought it was possible as a diy...once again, impressive.

About the marchesini rear, did that conversion years ago ( viewtopic.php?f=22&t=8181&p=65700&hilit ... ini#p65700 ), what tyre size and rim width are you using? any chain/swingarm clearance problems?
At the time I went for this 5.5" wheel, 165/55r17 slicks were quite available(used), but nowadays there is no 250cc mgp, so not so popular. Going for a bigger 180 tyre seemed like a real pain, at least to keep things in place without major surgery.

Keep it up.
Cheers

fourfingers wrote:Seems I´ve been missing another good one .
Very impressive work mathatch.
I once saw a 30 with dry clutch on a trip to the Alps, at a Honda dealer in a town on southern France, looong time ago. Thought about it several times over the past years, but never thought it was possible as a diy...once again, impressive.

About the marchesini rear, did that conversion years ago ( viewtopic.php?f=22&t=8181&p=65700#p63324 ), what tyre size and rim width are you using? any chain/swingarm clearance problems?
At the time I went for this 5.5" wheel, 165/55r17 slicks were quite available(used), but nowadays there is no 250cc mgp, so not so popular. Going for a bigger 180 tyre seemed like a real pain, at least to keep things in place without major surgery.

Keep it up.
Cheers

Sorry for the delayed reply i keep forgetting to check my tyre size but finaly i have. It is a 5.5 inch rim with the chain spaced out 5mm. I am using 180 55 17 i would rather use a 170 but these arnt really available in anything sticky that i can find.

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Yes, I remember fitting an extra 5mm spacer between the hub bearings and the sprocket carrier. Also a 3mm spacer between the axle and the wheel (to get the centerline of the wheel aligned with the centerline of the bike, as, from what I messured, ducati had a different axle offset, 3mm more to the RHs than Honda).
Even with this mods, it looked to me it would be hard to fit a 170, not to say a 180, unless you further offset the wheel to the RHS, upseting the centerline.

fourfingers wrote:Yes, I remember fitting an extra 5mm spacer between the hub bearings and the sprocket carrier. Also a 3mm spacer between the axle and the wheel (to get the centerline of the wheel aligned with the centerline of the bike, as, from what I messured, ducati had a different axle offset, 3mm more to the RHs than Honda).
Even with this mods, it looked to me it would be hard to fit a 170, not to say a 180, unless you further offset the wheel to the RHS, upseting the centerline.

Yes i also have the 3mm spacer to get the wheel on center line. The 180 just fits in the swingarm. I didn't think it was going to but i had an old 180 tyre i tried on the rim and was pleasantly surprised when it fitted.

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I think that 180 is going to be pretty arse on a 400. the size is going to take some of the nimbleness away from the little 400 and i'd imagine the fricational loss from the increased area will make a noticable different to accelleration and top speed, be interesting to hear how it runs... compared to a stock size..

most tyre sizes in that range are all zr for high powered bikes... i've always found that it takes an awful lot of effort (especially if on street) to get enough heat into them from the smaller bikes.. dunlop do their alpha tyres (at least in Japan in both ranges.. one for the small/mid bikes and one for the litre bikes) to ensure optimum heat / grip etc.

one of the best setups i had was a 160/60/17 alpha 13 (400 spec tyre not the ZR) on an RVF rim but even that took a lot of linkage fettling and shock setting to get the bike to feel as good as it did with the stock wheel, but once it was setup it was one of the nicest handling bikes, felt like it rode itself and would lean over so quick and easy it took a while to get used to not feeling like id binned it everytime i took a sharp corner.

I guess it all depends on how you plan to use the bike and what other nc30s you have to compare it too.

especially in a track / race situation setup is always cruicial but even more so with the smaller bikes as you can't make up as much with the lack of power.

Just a small update had some shims laser cut out to lift the cams for the skimmed head. With the shims like this i don't have to machine the posts for the rocker cover i just snot this down to the head and bolt the rocker cover on top. I have never seen how other people have done the shimming so would be interested to hear.[IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201801 ... 23fd67.jpg[/IMG]

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A very nice racer, Geoff Martin, shared the following templates a while ago. I guess the rubber gaskets from the cam covers can take care of the extra thickness of the shims, they should be between 0.2mm to 0.4mm depending on what you skimmed.




Cheers

fourfingers wrote:A very nice racer, Geoff Martin, shared the following templates a while ago. I guess the rubber gaskets from the cam covers can take care of the extra thickness of the shims, they should be between 0.2mm to 0.4mm depending on what you skimmed.




Cheers

Yes this is essentially the set up i was running before but it was very fiddly to assemble and they did'nt seem very flat

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Finally finnished my light weight rear disc conversion and caliper. I used a Chinese disc from a gokart (it was £10 new) and yamaha aerox rear caliper.

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Some more pics of the brake caliper.

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