Even if the airbox doesn't fit properly (do any of them still fit ok?), the bike'll still run better with it over the carbs than using individual filters. They're a pain in the bum to get working right, they really are. I've tried and went back to using the airbox.

As a quick fix from the Messrs Bodgitt & Scarper, you can wrap electrical tape around the outside of the carb mouths to get a slightly better seal.

Is there anything actually wrong with the bike, or do you just want to spend money on it (genuine question, not a dig!)?

You probably need to replace the air box rubbers - ring up Fowlers in Bristol (you need to give them your VIN number from the frame or it's on the V5 document) and order them. Pod filters will be almost impossible to get a mixture for.

For the head lights - bulbs for the 400 cost from £15-20 each and the lights are great.
Try these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-FZR-10 ... 6rk%3D2%26

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-FZR-10 ... 6rk%3D3%26

Ask the sellers for the rubber boot on each of the back of each headlight and if they can include the wiring then it should plug into your loom. They might charge a bit more but it's better to get it all from one place and save on the postage. These lights will take H4 bulbs which are better than the 400's.

Kayla850 wrote:Even if the airbox doesn't fit properly (do any of them still fit ok?), the bike'll still run better with it over the carbs than using individual filters. They're a pain in the bum to get working right, they really are. I've tried and went back to using the airbox.

As a quick fix from the Messrs Bodgitt & Scarper, you can wrap electrical tape around the outside of the carb mouths to get a slightly better seal.

Is there anything actually wrong with the bike, or do you just want to spend money on it (genuine question, not a dig!)?

Why is it so hard to set up the cone airfilters? And yeah the rubbers on the bottom of the airbox are fooooked, thats why im running cones instead.

There isnt nothing wrong with the bike now as ive had it all done, just need a respray on it then its complete.

And does the 3EN2 model run with both lights on or just one? And thanks ill look at ordering them bulbs now.

Cones are hard to set up because the airflow into them and arround is variable. If you sort out the fuelling with the bike on the stand as soon as the bike moves the airflow is different so the mixture changes and that's without any cross wind effect. We had a member who worked on the 400 TT racer (with a 600 engine) it lapped the island in one of the fastest times ... they couldn't get pods to work and eventally made a box to fit arround them.

Both headlights come on at the same time, they're dipping bulbs.

Ahh right ok, i may need to ring that guy then? And the airbox is really hard to put on as the screws are on the bottom of the airbox and not the top? Stupid idea?

And ok cheers, ill order them fzr1000 headlights then as i take it there easyer to get bulbs for?

The screws need to be on the bottom to seal to the carb mouths - I guess if I had to design it I'd make the airbox split so you mount the bottom section on a couple of bolts then screw down the top. You'll find most airboxes are a pain though.

Evilchicken0 wrote:The screws need to be on the bottom to seal to the carb mouths - I guess if I had to design it I'd make the airbox split so you mount the bottom section on a couple of bolts then screw down the top. You'll find most airboxes are a pain though.

Yes i would agree.

i started the bike up today with the cones on and new exhaust and it run fine, sound really well, ill have a look into the airbox rubbers but i think it will run fine with the cones on.

The airbox idea is stupid, will no others fit on it?

How lean is it running ???

If you run an engine lean it builds up heat, which burns the valves and they can melt. If they do that, even if one of them does that you'll need to take the head off and replace them which gets mighty expensive and so bye bye engine and therefore bike.

But if you think it will run fine ....

Evilchicken0 wrote:How lean is it running ???

If you run an engine lean it builds up heat, which burns the valves and they can melt. If they do that, even if one of them does that you'll need to take the head off and replace them which gets mighty expensive and so bye bye engine and therefore bike.

But if you think it will run fine ....

I'll check how lean it's running tomorrow when I work on it, lean means the plugs are white on the tip yes?

Seriously - don't run them