I have a question about that, the Haynes manual says I need to remove the entire cylinder head just to get to the transmission shaft, that seems a bit ridiculous, considering the input shaft is in the bottom of the engine. Shouldn't I only have to turn the engine upside down and remove the sump and split the crank case? Then the transmission shafts can be pulled straight out from there...

I think this will get fiddly.

The barrels are part of the crank case, you need to remove the head bolts to split everything apart so it's all goign to come apart anyway.

Have a look at the microfiche.

Wait, so I'm going to have to spend hundreds of dollars in gaskets just to change a transmission shaft? That's got to be a joke.

What this microfiche you speak of?

It's a FULL engine apart job to get to the shaft.

Parts diagram here:

http://www.akhara.com/nc30/nc30parts/index.htm

I have a spare shaft if you're desperate for one.

I confess that I have not had to split the crankcases but the haynes manual says that only the rear head has to come off to allow access with a torque wrench to a single bolt if you only want to play with the transmission shafts. I would rather torque the bolt by hand that have to remove the rear cylinder head.

Cammo, this link shows what I need to pull apart in order to get to the shafts. http://www.akhara.com/nc30/nc30parts/files/12.htm

I don't see why the cylinder heads should have to come off for that job, yeah they might be a slight inconvenience, but at the cost and almost $40 per gasket, it's not worth it. Pulling off the head will potentially result in many more problems that I do not need and can not afford.

Unless there are bolts that go into the cylinder heads, through the upper crank case, and into the lower crank case, I won't be pulling the heads off. It's just doesn't appear as though it needs to be done.

I guess we will find out on the day. I'm not doing it myself as I don't have to space, but if the heads need to come off too, that will add hours on top of the labour already.

I've done it before, not one of my favourite jobs.

I ran into an issue when separating the cases, can't remember for the life of me what it was.

I called the local shop around here that works on the 35, the mechanic said the front head can stay on, but the rear one needs to come off. Apparently there is a 14mm bolt that runs through the rear head or something, or is underneath it, and you can't get to it with the rear head there.

The Haynes manual doesn't say anything about a 14mm bolt holding the head to the crank case or the crank cases together. Hmm, guess I will have to find out when the engine is out of the bike.

amorti wrote:It'd be the last time you ever removed the clutch, but could you tighten it up enough to weld the nut on?