Re: rvf400/nc35 power problems(electrical issue?)
Posted: Sat Sep 24, 2011 4:05 pm
Balancing the carbs will not change peak power.
All it does is synchronise the vaccum at IDLE.
This will give you a smooth idle as all 4 cylinders are being fed the same amount of fuel/air mix.
When you are on full throttle the butterflies are open fully and the needles raised to their maximum.
I've read through the thread and you state a few times that you trust these guys to sort your bike out but you are asking people on here for advice? Maybe you don't trust them enough to fix your problems..
Compression test: What were the results for each cylinder, have you seen them compression test it? Do you have the results for each cylinder?
Chopping and changing random parts without knowing why won't usually solve the problem unless you try enough things to stumble upon the solution.
Kev over at Projex engineering is a dyno operator and owns an RVF400, stock dyno run was 49bhp but with a free flowing system and appropriate carb setup he's got the bike upto 64hp.
I don't believe that the Tyga system is your problem.
You need good compression (test this and post results, along with numbers for valve clearances)
Appropriate fuel / air mix - This relies on carb airbox / rubber flaps being inplace, correct jets and needles as well as clean air filter and good fuel flow.
Ignition: Your plugs need to work and not break down, as well as the coils and leads being in good condition.
Ancilliary drag such as worn sprockets and drive-chain, wheel bearings and rear-brake can all zap power from the motor too, check over these.
As Mark has said numerous times, there isn't a great deal of things that can restrict your power. With a free flowing system and approrpriately setup carbs and a healthy motor, circa 60bhp shouldn't be unreasonble to expect from a stock engine.
If I were certain that the carbs were setup properly (airbox and flap inplace) and the system had no leaks, the first checks i'd perform would be compression and ancilliary drag.
Electrical issues can cause problems too and it'd be wise to ensure you have a good battery and have tested the charging system.
Even something stupid like an airleak on the carbs or the balancing screws leaking air will alter your bhp.
Hopefully you can isolate the problem and fix it.
All it does is synchronise the vaccum at IDLE.
This will give you a smooth idle as all 4 cylinders are being fed the same amount of fuel/air mix.
When you are on full throttle the butterflies are open fully and the needles raised to their maximum.
I've read through the thread and you state a few times that you trust these guys to sort your bike out but you are asking people on here for advice? Maybe you don't trust them enough to fix your problems..
Compression test: What were the results for each cylinder, have you seen them compression test it? Do you have the results for each cylinder?
Chopping and changing random parts without knowing why won't usually solve the problem unless you try enough things to stumble upon the solution.
Kev over at Projex engineering is a dyno operator and owns an RVF400, stock dyno run was 49bhp but with a free flowing system and appropriate carb setup he's got the bike upto 64hp.
I don't believe that the Tyga system is your problem.
You need good compression (test this and post results, along with numbers for valve clearances)
Appropriate fuel / air mix - This relies on carb airbox / rubber flaps being inplace, correct jets and needles as well as clean air filter and good fuel flow.
Ignition: Your plugs need to work and not break down, as well as the coils and leads being in good condition.
Ancilliary drag such as worn sprockets and drive-chain, wheel bearings and rear-brake can all zap power from the motor too, check over these.
As Mark has said numerous times, there isn't a great deal of things that can restrict your power. With a free flowing system and approrpriately setup carbs and a healthy motor, circa 60bhp shouldn't be unreasonble to expect from a stock engine.
If I were certain that the carbs were setup properly (airbox and flap inplace) and the system had no leaks, the first checks i'd perform would be compression and ancilliary drag.
Electrical issues can cause problems too and it'd be wise to ensure you have a good battery and have tested the charging system.
Even something stupid like an airleak on the carbs or the balancing screws leaking air will alter your bhp.
Hopefully you can isolate the problem and fix it.
