v4 engine novice

[wullvfr]

for you to get a buzzing noise from the relay or any noise at all it means there is power getting to it.which means the switch is working at least to some extent.

this is what i want you to try....

first of all,test the voltage at the relay when you push the starter button....it may be easier to do this with someone helping you.on one side you should get 12 volts when the ignition is on and then when you push the starter you should get 12 volts on the other side.if you get 12 volts on one side when the ignition is on but not on the other side when the button is being pushed then it is more than likely the starter relay that is fooked,but this would not explain the probs with the lights going dead and the battery.

now you can also bridge the two connections on the starter relay with a screwdriver whilst the ignition is on,this should cause the starter to turn over...........

also check and see if you are getting 12volts at the starter when you push the starter.

if you try these this will give you a better idea to whats at fault.....i hope this helps.


william

[pugparcels]

william, thanks for the advise, i will try all of these things when i get home tonight. I did however just try to bridge the connections on the starter relay whith the ignition on before i left for work and yes she turned over just as if i had pressed the starter switch on the bars.

when you say check the starter to see if i am getting 12 volts do you mean the starter motor or the starter switch on the bars. sorry for being soooo stupid but as i mentioned many posts ago electrics aint really my thing.

[wullvfr]

hello-

at the starter motor,this indicates if full power is getting there.

but because you tried the test by bridging the connections then this indicates that the problem lies more than likely with the relay.

because this worked it means 12 volts is getting to one side,then you bridge it and the voltage gets to the other side and then turns the starter.it seems to me that the starter relay is faulty.



william

[pugparcels]

this is my thought, i dont think it is completey knackered i think it is getting tempermental with age as it can start the bike if i add extra power from my blade via jump leads, so i dont think it is transferring enough power through to the starter all of the time and when it has more power i.e blade & jump leads it has more than enough to tranfer 12 volts to the starter......?

does this sound fairly reasonable?

when you want me to check the relay where do you want me to put the probes off the multi meter....remember please be basic as if you were talking to a child....then hopefully i will understand!

once again thanks for all of your help, once i get her running i will update everyone with pictures of how she is coming along.

[wullvfr]

looking at the relay there will be a connection on both sides of it.obviously 12volts goes to one side then through to tje other side.

put the positive probe to the connection on the relay and the other probe to ground(earth).and the same for the other side of the relay.

it definately sounds like the relay being temperamental.if you want to rule out the starter switch then you can do a simple test.......

remove the block connector that comes from the r/h switchgear and with the ignition you can bridge the terminals in the connector which will start the bike depending on what is faulty.if the starter turns ok and works a treat then suspect the starter switch to be faulty.but if you get the usual buzzing noise then it is almost most definately the relay that is at fault.
you bridge the connections on the connector going into the bike,not the one whch is on the r/h switchgear side.the colours to bridge are red/yellow to black(nc30)can't remember if your's is a nc30.just bridge different ones and you will soon find which two cause the starter to turn or cause the buzzing sound.



william

[Sligeach]

seems petty but once you had the tank off, did you try turned the choke on and off and saw it working? i had the same prblem with mine, it appeared to be turning on the choke, but when i had the airbox off and could see the linkages, it was just stretching the cable and not activating the choke at all, as a result, the bike has similar symptoms to yours.
i agree with stickshift too, those carbs need to be spick and span and properly seated.

[pugparcels]

yep, i have had the carbs in and out more times than a fiddlers elbow. They have been stripped cleaned and rebuilt and are properly seated back in - what a pig that is to do!! . i even replaced the coke cable as it was sticking slightly with a new one. I have managed to aquire a working starter relay off ebay last night so once that arrives i will check that and let everyone know.

When she runs, shes not bad (for a bike that has been stood for four years ) idle is a bit rough and a bit crappy out the exhuast but that is getting better everytime i manage to start her so once i can get past this electrical issue i should be laughing.

on another note when the insurance paid up last year for my blade after i was knocked off i had a brand new laser hotcam system put on as the original race can was scuffed, i have noticed that this happens to be a 60mm slip which looks very similar to the vfr's exhaust diameter. This can was beautiful on the blade, would be interesting to see how it sounds on the vfr!! :D

[pugparcels]

ok been a few days but to try and update everone, i have checked the ignition switch and all seems fine, i have even checked it with another switch i had come attached to the extra loom i had, even with this the same still happens.

i can bridge the gap on the starter relay and she turns over. i had another relay turn up off ebay on sat and this was def working when it was removed from the bike as comes with a warrenty and this does the same as the original press the ignition and engine tries to fire then the starter relay just buzzes.

i have removed the starter motor tested via jump leads and all turns as should do with no issues. so i am going back to the bike shop on tuesday as they are shut on a monday to ask them to check this battery again or replace it unless anyone there or on here can come up with any other thoughts to why she dont want to turn over under this new battery on her own.

i know the carbs are clean, and when i get her to fire via my blades battery and jump leads all four carbs are working fine as all four exhaust pipes are getting hot so ruuning on all four as required. As before when she does fire she runs ok, bit grogey but that is more to the idle adjustment needing correcting and she really wants a new oil and filter then things when running should get better.

so i am back to a duff battery but can anyone think of any think else that could have been missed??

[wullvfr]

next time you try and start the bike have someone help you and test for 12 volts on the side of the relay that goes to the starter...you should get 12 volts when the starter button is getting pushed.

obviously you will when it does the "tries to start" but see what readings it gives you when it starts to buzz whilst pushing the starter..........

if you get no voltage and not 12 volts then i definately would be suspicious of the relay.



william

[pugparcels]

ok i will check after work, but as i mentioned the relay was changed on the weekend for a known working one and the symptoms i get are the same as before...

the starter motor was removed and checked and had no issues and again when she fires up with the help of my blade there is no issues.

i will let everyone know onight what happens