Blown head gasket?

[heavymetalmullet]

The shims are a different thickness in each valve so it's a matter of taking the cams out and noting what they are in each valve. Then you look at the tolerance you have and if you can swap some for others .... it's a usually a compromise.
Valve shims are a standard fitting not just between bikes but between manufacturers too, I think they're 7.6 mm dia (don't quote me on that).
The cam chain tensioner will be fine, might be an idea to order a spare tensioner gasket though, they're cheap.

Ah ok yeah that makes sense. Hopefully I can find some time over the weekend to remove the cams and get to the shims to see what I'm working with. Will be a good feeling to get these sorted so I can start bolting everything back together again

[Evilchicken0]

Is the engine still in the frame ? It's a bit more complicated to do it all with the engine in, but not impossible.
Get one of these - When you take the cams off you'll see the chrome followers, they sit quite tight so use the magnet to pick them out (and put them back in) it will also bring the shim out underneath it. The shim's thickness is engraved on one side, hopefully the top if it's on the bottom the valve will rub just where the number is :)
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/ ... ck-up-tool



The pic below shows TDC No1 cam timing, the flywheel mark points the crank cases joint at the front of the engine

[heavymetalmullet]

[quote="Evilchicken0"]Is the engine still in the frame ? It's a bit more complicated to do it all with the engine in, but not impossible.
Get one of these - When you take the cams off you'll see the chrome followers, they sit quite tight so use the magnet to pick them out (and put them back in) it will also bring the shim out underneath it. The shim's thickness is engraved on one side, hopefully the top if it's on the bottom the valve will rub just where the number is :)
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/ ... ck-up-tool

Hey buddy! Thanks for the advice with the magnetic tool, picked one up the other day and it's brilliant. Today I've got a bit further with the valve pad checks. I've removed the cam shafts and have taken out all the intake-side valve pads and noted down the numbers of each one. Some of them are numbered 168 and 172 and when I've looked on the valve adjustment chart the numbers only go up in increments of 5 so i'm a bit confused?!

[Evilchicken0]

The aftermarket shims are made to the nearest 5 - it's nothing to worry about Yamaha could afford to have half sizes. Aim for the middle of the tolerance range then go to the larger end if you have a choice.

You're doing very well so far

[heavymetalmullet]

The aftermarket shims are made to the nearest 5 - it's nothing to worry about Yamaha could afford to have half sizes. Aim for the middle of the tolerance range then go to the larger end if you have a choice.

You're doing very well so far

Ah cheers mate! Just been showing my other half the measurements etc that I've been taking down and she thinks i'm crazy for doing all this ha ha!

Just converting my measurements that I did in inches back to mm's to make it easier to cross reference on the adjustment chart. Out of interest wemoto don't have replacement pads listed for the 3EN1 but they do for the 6003HE, am I correct in thinking the pads will be exactly the same diameter and will fit my bike?

[heavymetalmullet]

Ok so looking at my measurements which I made and converting them into mm's it looks like all the intake side shims which were too tight need replacing with a shim .5 down from the existing one according to the chart. Nearly all my intake ones require a 160 shim, does that sound right?

[Evilchicken0]

You should measure them in mm it's easier. That means start with a mm feeler gauge.
Yes the 3he uses the same type of shims.

The good thing about doing this is the experience you'll gain from it. This is one of the harder things to do on a 4 stroke engine.