My over-sight, resistance reading are made with the engine stopped.

Your resistance readings are within spec for an alternator.

A further test, that demonstrates there is real power being produced by the alternator, is to connect a 60 watt lamp to each pair of yellow wires and run the engine at idle. The lamp should illuminate and you should measure 12 volts AC across the lamp (engine rpm might need to be slightly above idle to achieve 12 volts AC).

Assuming a functional alternator, your most likely cause of low charging voltage is a failed rect/reg. You can test for this fault in the rect/reg or simply replace the rect/reg.

Let me know if you want to test the rect/reg and I will provide instructions.

My over-sight, resistance reading are made with the engine stopped.

Your resistance readings are within spec for an alternator.

A further test, that demonstrates there is real power being produced by the alternator, is to connect a 60 watt lamp to each pair of yellow wires and run the engine at idle. The lamp should illuminate and you should measure 12 volts AC across the lamp (engine rpm might need to be slightly above idle to achieve 12 volts AC).

Assuming a functional alternator, your most likely cause of low charging voltage is a failed rect/reg. You can test for this fault in the rect/reg or simply replace the rect/reg.

Let me know if you want to test the rect/reg and I will provide instructions.

No oversight magg just me learning the ropes!ha it's much appreciated.

I've not got a lamp, seems to be heading reg/rec so ill test that if you think it's worth doing or shall I simply order/get one.

What would be the best to get and where from as I,ve seen 3or4 different ones on eBay and heard about the r6 one?

Nearly got it sorted, thanks

To test the rect/reg, set multimeter to diode function (switch position with arrow type symbol next to 200 ohm resistance range position).

With rect/reg disconnected, put red multimeter probe on a rect/reg terminal that is normally connected to a yellow wire and put black multimeter probe on rect/reg terminal that is normally connected to the red wire. You should get a readings of 0.6. Then reverse the probe connections and the reading should be 1blank etc indicating open circuit.

Repeat this test using the other yellow wires. I suspect that for one of the yellow wires you will not get a 0.6 reading but a 1blank indicating an open circuit diode in the rect/reg.

As for a replacement rect/reg, I can only suggest that usually bigger and newer is better ( late model CBR600/R1/R6). If a type similar to OEM, use one with a metal base plate so that generated heat can be efficiently transferred out of the rect/reg.

Thanks, will do

New reg/rec came today.
Fitted it started fine then stalled, thought I hadn't given it enough choke, would not start then!
Indicators and lights are wont turn on?..
Can't believe it, thought I was there!
Any ideas, I'm out checking fuses now but all look ok?

Ignition on, no lights, indicators but if I turn the lights on the temp gauge shoots into the max, some wires have gone astray?

When it tries to start the headlight tries to come on.

I just don't get it.

Tried the old reg/rec and its the same?

Not happy,

lanks wrote:Ignition on, no lights, indicators but if I turn the lights on the temp gauge shoots into the max, some wires have gone astray?

Definitely sounds like a wiring fault. It didn't do this before? It's possible the temp gauge just goes higher if the voltage is lower so that the battery choking when you turn the lights on it thinks the temp is super high. I wouldn't bet on it, though.

I'd pull all the fuses and then put them back in one at a time and see if the stuff connected to that fuse works. That way you can hopefully at least narrow down the problem. (The lights and the temp gauge aren't even wired up to the same fuse.) Then start tracing the wires. These things can be a bitch to find.

Do you have the wiring diagram? Someone posted it here in the last few days.

lanks wrote:Ignition on, no lights, indicators but if I turn the lights on the temp gauge shoots into the max, some wires have gone astray?

You seem to have some dodgy wiring. Unfortunately it's out with the wiring diagram and a multimeter to see what is crossed up. However, I think if the temp gauge is shorted to ground, it goes off the scale? Doesn't the thermistor in it lose resistance as the temp increases, and that deflect the gauge further over?