Electric testing

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magg
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Re: Electric testing

Post by magg »

Yes 50mA is too much, unless you ride the bike every day. It will discharge the battery in approx 5 days. Try disconnecting your alarm and measure the current again. If no better then disconnect the rect/reg and measure again. If still no significant change then pull the 30 Amp fuse and measure again.
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bikemonkey
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Re: Electric testing

Post by bikemonkey »

Alarm only disconnected = -0.3 when multimeter set to 200microamps with the red lead in the V(microamp symbol)mA hole. And -0.13 volts when multimeter set to 20 on the volt scale, red lead in same hole.

Alarm and reg/rec disconnected = 0 same multimeter settings for current
- 10.5 on 200m dial setting for volts (0.1 on same setting as before)

Alarm, reg/rec and 30A fuse disconnected = no readings at all.


Also when pulling my fuse out of the starter solenoid I noticed it is only rated 20A 32V?

Sorry if any of this takes a while to get your head round, I'm not great at explaining things!
magg
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Re: Electric testing

Post by magg »

For clarification, your multimeter has three probe holes. One marked COM, one marked V/mA and the third marked 10ADC. To measure DC currents up to 200mA or DC volts you should use the probe holes COM and V/mA. The 10ADC probe hole only functions when the multimeter is set to current 10 Amp.

To be certain that your measurements are valid best to repeat them. Use COM and V/mA probe holes and the 200 mA current range. Sorry to make you repeat the process.
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bikemonkey
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Re: Electric testing

Post by bikemonkey »

Right, multimeter set to 200mA no readings between negative lead and frame at all.

Image

Multimeter set to this :

Image

Reading of 0.3 when alarm disconnected, and no reading when reg/rec also disconnected. Didn't test with the main fuse out.
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bikemonkey
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Re: Electric testing

Post by bikemonkey »

Been thinking, even with the alarm disconnected, the ignition gubbins have been run through the alarm, so the bike won't start with the alarm disconnected because the ignition circuit isn't closed.

So would disconnecting the alarm mask any electrical leak in the ignition system?
magg
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Bike owned: VFR400
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Re: Electric testing

Post by magg »

No current reading means no leakage. Do you have info on where your alarm fits into the bike electrics. Believe the alarm should draw at least 2mA but less in sleep mode. Alarm is supposed to tell you when battery is going flat, has it? Are you sure your battery is ok have you done a load test after charging, does it run the starter motor easily without needing a recharge? When did this problem start? Sorry if I appear to be going backwards.
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bikemonkey
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Re: Electric testing

Post by bikemonkey »

Unfortunately the fitting instructions and user guide don't contain any wiring diagram at all. Although I need to ring acumen as they haven't sent me out a flip key for the alarm fob when I sent the confirmation of installation back to them over 2 weeks ago, so I'll ask then.

The alarm has told me when the battery is going flat, and it has gone into sleep mode before, but this is all within a few days of the battery being fully charged.

I haven't done a load test, I shall do one today. High beam lights enough of a load test?

It runs the stater motor easily for a fair few tries, easily could leave the starter motor on for a few minutes before the battery drained.

The problem started probably before I bought the bike, as the dealer said that he had had to keep it on charge if it was left for more than a few days. I bought a new battery for the bike about a month ago then a week later had the alarm installed. The battery that was in the bike when I bought it was also draining, but much faster and didn't hold charge very well.

No worries, I wouldn't know where to start with any of this, so the help is thoroughly appreciated :smile:
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bikemonkey
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Re: Electric testing

Post by bikemonkey »

Just did a quick load test on the battery.

Voltage across battery before test (fully charged battery) = 13.7 volts

Voltage across battery while dipped beam on, bike not running = 12.6 volts

Voltage across battery after test = 13.2 volts
magg
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Re: Electric testing

Post by magg »

How long did you leave the lights on, a fully charged good battery the voltage should stay above 10 volts for approximately half an hour with high beam on.

Did the new battery hold a charge before you had the alarm fitted or was it already starting to loss its charge.
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bikemonkey
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Re: Electric testing

Post by bikemonkey »

I have just done another load test as I didn't leave the lights on for longer than 30 seconds the first time.

Initial battery voltage before test = 13.9

Voltage just after turning the full beam on = 12.2

Voltage 15 minutes later = 10.2

Voltage another 10 minutes later = 3.2

Glad I checked the battery when I did and put it on charge, or it would have probably been bye bye battery.

As for the battery before the alarm, I don't think I ever put it on the bike as I just fully charged it so the alarm fitter had a full charge to play with.

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