hmm ohright. well il take it off and see how it feels without it. and then il compare it that way.

so what about this one then?? is it worth the buck for a stock road bike? part from the obviouse road mods like more free flow zhuast

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-VFR400- ... 1357wt_952

lizard821000 wrote:so what about this one then?? is it worth the buck for a stock road bike? part from the obviouse road mods like more free flow zhuast

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-VFR400- ... 1357wt_952

Its just an ignitech mate, rick sells em cheaper

still worth the buck though mate? for road riding.

i wouldn't of though so tony

eh?

Think royston meant you shaun, i really dont see the point of running a HRC map on a standard motor. The map is developed for a HRC motor which is in very different state of tune than a stock motor. Plus testing is showing ignitech's are down on power even when loaded with a stock map against a stock CDI.

though he did, ok mate. sounds un-needed to me.

None of it is needed with a stock motor.

From some research i've done today and people i've asked you may or may not (nobody is totally sure anymore) of needed a racing licence to buy the speed-derestrictor from Honda (that was probably just to stop people de-restricting it)

The full HRC kit is supposed to use High Octane fuel to limit detonation but I don't think this is to do with the SP unit, more like the overall tune of the engine.

The easiest, cheapest and most unidentifiable way to de-restrict the motor from the 180km/h limit is to remove all the screws from the speedo and remove the metal tab from the speedo wheel, free and no cutting or soldering or plugging needed. (just remember to reconnect the speedo back up)

Of course you can always fit an mph convertor too.

Interestingly though i've found a blue-fox box that is the same as the SP unit but made by Blue Fox... maybe Liam would be interested in it :)

The mid-range flat-spot with stock jetting is usually down to a lean transition phase from pilots to main jets... raising the needles by an extra 0.5mm will normally cure this problem.

Since this is a fuelling issue rather than electronical issue I can't see how changing any of the ignition would fix this.

My tuppenceon these SS boxes is that they are a tool for the regs at the time. SS/SP - road related class - so I would assume you were limited in running the std CDI. So if you then removed the speedo you needed something to stop the bike limping.

That is it...as simple as that.

I recall other people doing some testing a few years back and nothing was found ot be different. The Placebo effect asaide, I 'll be no-one could tell either way whether an SS box was fitted or not.