porndoguk wrote:code2006 wrote:Yea u can buy iridium plugs for the nc30/35 but they are not cheap
Would cost about £80-90 for a set of 4
and there horrid DENSOs
What's wrong with Denso plugs? There My plug of choice. (did you get a bad set?)
You can get Iridum ER9's but I don't think there really worth it.
Anyway, back to the original thread.
As people have been saying (i've only skimmed the thread) these bikes are very sensitive to changes around the airbox. Unless your planning on building a track-day weapon and want something that is rideable using the standard airbox (don't remove anything) and standard air filter will be more than adequate.
These bikes were designed and engineered to produce 60bhp which was the maximum permitted by Japanese law at the time of manufacture.
If you try to use a foam filter you'll need to adjust the carb jets to compensate for more air and it all becomes awkward trying to make the bike run ok. Even after all this the bike won't produce much more power.
To get more power your going to have to get serious (check out some of the members bikes) but power isn't everything, the 60hp from the factory is fine unless your competetive on trackdays, these bikes are made to go around bends. You can drop a couple of teeth on the cogs if you want some more accelleration grunt (at a reduction of overall speed) but if straight line accellearation if what your after you will be miles better selling it and buying a CBR600F. You'll save yourself money too.
For now i'd concentrate on getting the bike running great in the standard form, it's no good trying to tune a turd.
There old and may have been butchered by a monkey at some point. Cammo's carb guide is a great start, it'll show you how to strip and clean and set the carbs up to best possible factory spec. Since you have an aftermarket system people on here will be able to advise you what the best jets and pilot screw settings are.
While you have the carbs off set the valve clearnaces too, unless these are correct the bike wont' run properly, it can also damage the valves and stop the engine running properly.
Now that you have working carbs and valve clearances you want to sort the back-firing out... this is usually a slightly rich system letting air into the exhaust, when this happens the extra petrol ignites with a bang!
You probbaly have a leaking exhaust gasket, and / or a hole in the exhaust.
Removing the snorkal will let more air into the bike, which will LEAN out the mixture, since this has made the backfiring go away some it suggests that the bike was originally too RICH.
Removing the snorkal to fix this isn't the way to go, it is best to fix the main cause of the problem rather than treating the symptoms (cammos carb guide will see your right)
Then seal up the exhaust system and your good to go.
Circa 60hp is good! you might get a few over / under but you won't see much higher without spending more than an exhaust..
with the snorkel in, reading a certain amount of HP then we was talking about different Air filters and what would be better and we discussed removing the Snorkel. then we put it on Dyno again, and i think there wasn't much difference, slightly worse if i was looking a tthe right Colour line, i think he was looking at the older line and was telling me it was better, think he got confused, anyway in the end of it, he told me it wouldnt do it any harm with more air getting through
